Compare the new and old hand, you'll find the old hand to be shorter, and perhaps beveled slightly on the right edge (closest to the center of the gun).
What is happening to yours is that the hand is long enough to attempt to turn the cylinder before the bolt has withdrawn, so it can't. Shorten the top face of the hand bit by bit without changing any angles until the bolt withdraws just before the cylinder starts to turn.
Then you will have to adjust the stop point so the cylinder will index and lock as the trigger's sear engages the full cock notch. This more often relates to the little bevel at the inside edge of the hand as it is engaging a rotated rachet tooth which is no longer square to the top surface of the hand.
With both the cylinder and the hand out of the gun, hold them, in your hands, in position as the gun would orient them and push upward on the rachet with the hand and see how they relate at the bottom and the top of the stroke, as judged by the position on the clock of the top chamber, 12 O'clock being straight up.... This will show you how it works. Then you must get it all timed with the full cock notch and the bolt lift and drop.
You might decide in the end that it is the job for a gunsmith, or buy a few more spare parts, a Jerry Keunhausen book and learn how.
