Author Topic: finishing polyeurethane on stock (Read 1012 times)

870 expressmag · « **on:** April 09, 2006, 02:24:42 AM »

i just sanded down and refinished a mossberg 183D shotgun stock to remove the last owners license number! :x i stained it and it looks beautiful!....i have applied about 4 coats of polyeurethane with a foam brush and then two coats of sprayed polyeurethane...my question is how to i make the surface still glossy but silky smooth...i want to take out like the little brush marks and the spray marks....i heard like 800 grit sandpaper lightly? not sure

gwindrider1 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 09, 2006, 06:16:53 AM »

870,

This is certainly not the only method you could use, but works rather well for me. Get some Rottenstone. It is literally powdered stone, almost to the degree of talcum powder. It's a little hard to find sometimes. Mix it with water, or oil to a watery paste consistencey. Then use a thick felt pad to polish the surface of your stock. It's labor intensive, but gives the stock surface a beautiful luster. If I remember correctly, mixing it with water will give you more shine, while mixing it with oil, will give you a more satin look.

If you have a specialty woodworking shop in your area, you might find it there, although, on occasion, I have seen it at Lowe's, and Home Depot.

Best of luck with your project!

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 09, 2006, 07:20:35 AM »

Poly finishes can be handled much like an automotive paint job. Color sand the 6 coats with a wet-or-dry paper at least 600 grit used wet. Rinse the pad aften and go lightly. Just sand until the surface defects are gone. When the finish is leveled polish it with 0000 steel wool and lightly coat with wax. This will produce a satin finish with a bit of luster. Rotten stone and other preparations are availabel from Brownells. The are used to alter the shine of a finish. Rottenstone is the coarsest followed by Triple-F which is followed by Five-F. The last 2 are paste type polishing compounds that bring the shine up.. A rotten stone rubbing is the clasic technique for a satin finish..but won't level the finish very well as it cuts little.

Plink · « **Reply #3 on:** April 09, 2006, 03:54:05 PM »

I've used Brownells 3-f and 5-f compound on polyurethane in the past. Followed with some wax, it makes for a very shiny finish. It takes a little labor but it's well worth it.

870 expressmag · « **Reply #4 on:** April 11, 2006, 12:02:00 PM »

a friend of mine suggested 00 or 000 steel wool...and follow it with bees wax...should this produce a nice smooth and shiny stock?? how hard is bees wax to apply and how hard does it get?

Plink · « **Reply #5 on:** April 11, 2006, 01:18:24 PM »

Beeswax can be found in hobby shops, but it's probably cheaper if you can get it from local beekeepers. I'm thinking that using that course of steel wool, the finish will be satin without a lot of gloss. I've always went from 600-800 grit, to 0000 steel wool, to 3f then 5f compound to get a "shiny as glass" finish.

870 expressmag · « **Reply #6 on:** April 11, 2006, 03:18:19 PM »

is beeswax easy to apply and does it make a hard shell or protecting surface?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 12, 2006, 07:17:17 AM »

Bees' wax doesn't really get very hard. It will protect from water but wears away qucikly. I suggest a product containing carnuba wax. Does NOT use any auto wax products as they often contain abrasives. Use protective waxes for wood surfaces or stone surfaces such as counter tops. Carnuba will dry hard. There are also polishing waxes available that can even be used alone. They also are mainly made with carnuba wax.. I to skip from the final coat of finish to 0000 steel wool, then to wax unless I need the shine, in which case we skip the polish steps and simply apply a thin wet coat and allow it to do the shine for us..

Huffmanite · « **Reply #8 on:** April 13, 2006, 04:20:19 PM »

Earlier reply suggested Rottenstone which is good. I use a chaulk board felt eraser with it and like he said water or oil with it OK.

Also, if you have automotive paint rubbing/polishing compound you could use it with soft cloth/eraser and have good results.

Both of these methods will take gloss off finish.

victorcharlie · « **Reply #9 on:** April 14, 2006, 01:42:38 AM »

If you want a super slick glossy finish, spray your final coat of poly out of an air brush and thin the poly before spraying. You can get an air brush at Harbor Freight for about $20. This will really give you the finish your looking for and you won't have to compond.

First thing is to sand with 400 grit to remove the brush marks. Then spray thin coats to fill. So, sand, spray, let the coat dry for a couple of days, then sand, and spray. Repeat. Depending on how smooth your wood is to start with will depend on how many coats you will need. Then after about 10 very thin coats start sanding with 600 grit. I'm not sure you have enough coats on to fill the voids left by the brush.

I use an air brush from start to finish, and it's simply the best way to apply a finish that I've found. Works great with tru-oil too.

The advantage of an air brush over a spray can is that you can control the air and the amount of the product, as well as the mixture.

Think thin.....very thin coats......

doncisler · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2006, 04:01:54 PM »

one point that wasn't emphysized is when you are wet sanding with the 600 to 1000 grit wet or dry paper (always wet) is to use a fairly stiff pad, not just your fingers unles you are really good. then be really dareful around edges and high curves.
it is really easy to sand thru the finish then you get to start over.
600 grit to sand out the brush marks, 1000 grit to take out fine scratches, then a light coat of thinned out urethane gives a really nich, not too shiny finish.

Mike in Ct · « **Reply #11 on:** May 07, 2006, 03:55:50 AM »

If like they said you are not a pro with the spray can or air gun...I use one of those hairy looking 3M grey plastic pads for final polishing & then apply a good furniture/flooring wax like Butchers...Takes off any bleems in the finish...gets a very nice subtle shine to the wood...That system has served me well for years...I apply Butchers wax after even using the rubbed in oil finish...Shine with any clean lint free cloth..PS:.I hate steel wool the little leftover bits get everywhere...mike in ct

oldandslow · « **Reply #12 on:** June 10, 2006, 02:32:14 PM »

I used to use a Binks touchup gun to spray finish with but got tired of cleaning the thing. Now I just use a spray can. Spray cans cost more but when adding the cost of thinner to clean with seems to even out. I've built several muzzleloaders over the last few years and wanted the durability of poly but not the gloss. Just out of curosity I tried plain old Clover valve grinding compound that you can buy at any parts house. The coarse knocks the shine off with very little work. If it is too dull rub it lightly with the fine until you get it like you want.