Author Topic: Glass bedding (Read 1064 times)

Doublejake · « **on:** April 11, 2006, 11:12:36 PM »

I have heard the terms glass bedding before when guys are talking groups, heated barrels etc. What exactly is glass bedding? Whats it's cost etc:?:

victorcharlie · « **Reply #1 on:** April 12, 2006, 01:19:10 AM »

It a process designed to prevent the action from moving in the stock. Here's a good description: http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html

gunnut69 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 12, 2006, 08:03:31 AM »

Glass bedding is really a 2 part epoxy(polyester) that is used to create a perfect reverse image of the action and/or barrel of a rifle. This produces a stabil platform for the rifle and enhances accuracy. The material is usually but no alwaysm, reinforced with fiberglass or other fiberous materials.

Nobade · « **Reply #3 on:** April 13, 2006, 02:31:47 AM »

I have a Powerpoint demonstration available on CD that you can play in your computer and see exactly how it is done. You can get one free by going to the web site www.probed2000.com or calling us at 1-800-326-5632 and ask for one. Basically it's like Gunnut says, the epoxy fills in any space not occupied by the reciever and barrel so you have a perfect fit in the stock. This way the assembly vibrates the same way with each shot and accuracy is improved. Depending on how the factory fit is, you will see a small or large improvement, but it always helps if it is done properly.

JD11 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 10, 2006, 06:38:08 AM »

Nobade, hey Score High guy! By coincidence I just finished using your Pillar Bedding Kit on my Howa Varminter Supreme 22-250 day before yesterday with two suprising results. First, during the process, I managed to NOT screw up the stock, etc, or make any mistakes. Secondly, I went out to the gun club yesterday and shot more than one smaller than dime-size 5 shot group. Thanks to your excellent kit and instructions, this is a way big improvement over my previous group size. I was so happy with the results, when I got home I decided the job wasn't complete with the "sandpaper" creepy Howa trigger and I ordered a new Timney from Midway. Thanks again for a great product.

Nobade · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2006, 02:18:47 AM »

Cool, glad you like it! We're selling those kits all over the world and getting feedback like this all the time. It's a good feeling to have something available that makes it possible for people to improve the accuracy of their own rifles and take pride in their job. Glad you had such good results with the kit! BTW, the factory Howa trigger is a fine piece, you just have to know how to set it up for a good pull. I sure wish they had a better design for the safety though, it would make tuning those things a lot less tricky. Without a milling machine they're not something the average gun owner needs to be trying to do.

tootalloutdoors · « **Reply #6 on:** May 14, 2006, 02:32:08 AM »

It's interesting that you mentioned the trigger adjustment on the howa and the safety mechanism in the same sentence. I just adjusted my brothers howa trigger and the safety would not work half the time.
Did I do something wrong?

Nobade · « **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2006, 09:44:22 AM »

Yes. The whole deal with the Howa trigger is the safety works by blocking the trigger from travelling far enough forward to come off the front of the sear. You can adjust the trigger to a nice creep free pull, but now the trigger is far enough forward (in relation to the safety) that the safety can't slide into place and block the trigger. What has to be done is to remove metal from the forward edge of the trigger to allow it to come farther forward (reducing sear engagement) while still getting stopped by the safety when it is applied. This is not something to be done casually, the tolerances between not enough and "oops, I just ruined it" are extremely fine. Most people should not attempt to do this because they do not have either a milling machine or a fine enough touch with a grinding wheel. It is possible to repair if the cutting is taken too far, but it is not easy. That trigger is harder than the hinges of hades, and can only be cut with carbide tooling. I have repaired them by drilling and pressing in a 1/16" dowel pin and cutting that to the right height, but it's best to not go there in the first place. If done proprly, the Howa trigger can be tuned to be better than most anything and feel great to most shooters. Done wrong it can be extremely unsafe, and can be made to fire with the safety on or when it is released. Keep this in mind when evaluating your trigger skills, and send it to someone who knows what they are doing if you have any doubts.

JD11 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 14, 2006, 10:45:33 AM »

Tootalloutdoors, to add to Nobade's knowledgable post, this is pretty much word for word how the Howa tech department told me how to adjust mine, To remove creep----Rear screw--first cock action, put safety on, turn screw clockwise until screw stops. Check safety for easy on and off. If OK, adjustment is perfect, if not, back off screw 1/4 turn. Of course if that's still not acceptable, like Nobade said, time to see a gunsmith.

tootalloutdoors · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2006, 11:16:02 AM »

Thanks guys. I'll get ahold of him and let him read this. Perhaps we'll find a trigger pull that will split the difference, or he can decide what he wants to do. Thanks tootalloutdoors

JD11 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 14, 2006, 12:05:03 PM »

Quote

Perhaps we'll find a trigger pull that will split the difference,

That's something I was wondering about after reading Nobade's post about five times and finally understanding his exact modification to correct the problem. The point being, if you read my last post on my Timney trigger thread, what I did should not really have gotten rid of the creep. However, I can't detect it now, so I'm thinking that lightening the pull to two pounds, and smoothing surfaces made the creep totally undectable. It has a nice crisp light break now with no feel of travel at all, and previously I'd actually pull through what felt like a "gritty" distance, hesitate, then continue my pull to fire when bench rest shooting. That doesn't exactly do wonders for your concentration or frame of mind.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 18, 2006, 07:45:37 AM »

JD11 you really answered your own question. There must always be a certain amount of creep as it is the distance the sears must move for one to clear the other. Since there must always be some movement there must always be some creep. The trick is to make it 'invisible' to the shooter. The key words are smooth and small. A minimum amount of movement(just enough for safeties sake) and make those moving surfaces as smooth as possible.. The geometry of each trigger design will define the degree to which we can limit the sear engagement and thus the creep.