Author Topic: Question about the load chart for cannon under 2 inch bore (Read 847 times)

reddog · « **on:** April 18, 2006, 11:55:23 AM »

Hi All, I was looking at the load chart in the sticky at the top of the page and under the chart it says " for unpatched ball attached to A sabot" I know what A sabot is but what is it for, And do I have to use A sabot to fire A ball? I have A 1 inch bore cannon. Up till now I've just blank fired but would like to try A ball.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #1 on:** April 18, 2006, 12:28:07 PM »

Before hazzarding a guess or prediction as to load, what is the nature of the cannon surrounding the 1" bore?

Kansas Boomer · « **Reply #2 on:** April 18, 2006, 03:02:20 PM »

reddog, here is a picture of the sabots I made up for my 1" bore cannon. They work much better then the patch I was using. I use steel 1" balls, and a round wood block cut out with a hole saw. A little tape, and away we go. 250 gr. of ff goex works just fine. Boomer

reddog · « **Reply #3 on:** April 18, 2006, 05:03:00 PM »

The cannon I have is the 1 inch bore field cannon from Cannon-mania. I just want to know why I should use A sabot or not. Nice projectiles you made there kansas, I'm thinking about starting at 150 grains for A 1 inch ball, but what is the sabot for? Can I just fire A ball on its own with A safe charge?

Double D · « **Reply #4 on:** April 18, 2006, 05:32:14 PM »

The sabot keeps the ball from rolling out of the barrel or away from the powder charge.

Not mandatory, just useful. If you have a good bore and nice round free rolling CB's aand you have 0 of less degrees inclination of your bore the ball can roll away from the charge and make an airspace. Air space is not good on black powder loads. (Actually in smokeless also)

Some folks load the ball as ppart of the charge. The will work also.

Keep in mind the loads listed on Mr. Switlik's Chart are Maximum loads.

The chart is posted by permission of Mat Switlik with the kind assistance of our own Artilleryman...Thanks Norm!!

Terry C. · « **Reply #5 on:** April 18, 2006, 05:55:00 PM »

Sabots kept the ball from rolling in the bore. This kept the fuse in the correct position when firing exploding shells. It would also prevent the ball from rolling away from the charge when the muzzle was depressed (that would be bad, m'kay).

Many sabots were designed so that a powder bag could be tied to them, creating 'fixed' ammunition.

I've often considered making some sabots for my 1.125" balls, but I never have. All of my live fire in this gun has been with unpatched lead balls of proper windage, rammed down tight against the powder charge. The charge is usually pre-packaged in aluminum foil, although I have used loose powder on occasion.

My opinion is that you do not need a sabot. All other things equal, a load suitable for a saboted ball should be perfectly safe for an identical plain ball (unpatched), since you are decreasing payload size/weight and probably increasing windage.

Of course, it is JUST my opinion. There are others here with much more experience and if I am wrong, I will defer to their superior knowledge.

EDIT: DD posted while I was typing. I need to learn to use more than two fingers...

Double D · « **Reply #6 on:** April 18, 2006, 06:23:37 PM »

Quote from: Terry C.

EDIT: DD posted while I was typing. I need to learn to use more than two fingers...

We both posted at the same time, it's just that your two fingers are more long winded than my two!

reddog · « **Reply #7 on:** April 18, 2006, 07:00:13 PM »

Thanks for the help, I just want to be safe with my new cannon!!