Author Topic: Swede Mauser 6.5X55  (Read 1925 times)

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Offline jack19512

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« on: April 28, 2006, 01:58:33 AM »
I want to add a Swede Mauser in 6.5X55 caliber to my collection.  Anyone have any hints or advice on what I should be looking for?

Since I know nothing at all about the Swede rifles any info would be appreciated.

What would I expect to pay for a good shooter grade rifle?  Thanks

Offline Mikey

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2006, 02:25:17 AM »
The Swedes usually are found in two configurations - the M96 Carl Gustav Mauser made in Sweden, some made in Germany.  Usually have a 29" bbl, very smooth and accurate.  And there is the M38 - some made by Carl Gustav, some by Husquavarna.  This is a mil-surp, may not be as smooth as the Gustav, comes with a 23" bbl.  Very accurate.

All the mil-surp rifles with original stocks have a round disc on the stock that shows the bore degradation.  Try and find one with a #1 - they are the best of the lot, but #s 2 and 3 will group to about 2" at 100m for ya.  My M38 is a #2 and groups me snake-eyes at 150 with Sellier and Bellot 131 gn soft points.  

A trick is to look for matching serial numbers on the rifle and stock - that will tell you the stock disc is accurate for that rifle.  HTH.  Mikey.

Offline Slamfire

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2006, 08:23:44 PM »
In addition to tellin' you the amount of rust in the bore 1 to 3, that disk will tell you how much erosion is present in the barrel.  :wink:
Bold talk from a one eyed fat man.

Offline bbqsnbeer

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2006, 01:02:36 PM »
These are great rifles to shoot ! . Smooth action  , low felt recoil .
1905 CG. M96


Bayo
" It's not the pipes , Laddie , It's the Piper ! "

Offline ringo

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2006, 04:07:05 AM »
The Swedes stamped just about every metal part with a serial number, they were meticulous.  They even stamped the cleaning rod, there are approximately 17-19 places they stamped, so it may be inappropriate to disassemble the rifle before buying, but try to get a "numbers matching" as it will hold its value and command good resale.  All my Swedes are incredibly accurate, low recoil, and have good quality fit and finish.

Offline glshop20

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2006, 02:49:37 PM »
I don't know of anyone that was dissapointed with a M-96.  Like mentioned above look for matching numbers especially the bolt and receiver.  If the barrel is not heavily cosmolined (not likely) see if you can run a few patches through the barrel and check it out.  You can't get a great read on barrel condition this way but the ones that I have checked this way are generally pretty bright.  The Swedes like the Swiss seem to take pride in maintaining their rifles in good condition.  The results, 100year old rifles that will shoot as well as alot of todays rifles.  Get a Swede you won't be sorry.

Offline 1911crazy

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2006, 02:23:29 AM »
I have a few swede's now and the stock disc on some of them are #1, #2 and #3 and i can't see or tell the difference.  My shooter is a #2 and it will shoot tighter groups than most modern rifles with iron sites and when the modern rifes have scopes to.  I shot better than some local SWAT guys at our local range, I know because they told me and came over to see what i was shooting.  I told them it was a 100yo swede mauser.  I was just using sellier & bellot ammo too.  Everytime my son sees my target(1 1/2" groups two sand bags benchrested) at 100yds he just shakes his head, he still can't believe how good the swede mausers shoot.  Even if i support the rifle with just a front sand bag she still shoots 1 1/2" groups.

I would look for a good condition swede mauser,  with the stock disc #1 or #2.  But if she is a purdy one and the only one and a #3 I wouldn't be afraid to grab it, all my number #3 bores still look great.  

1. Checkout the stock disc number first.

2. I look at the condition of the bore next from the breech to the muzzle looking to see if it has even rifling top to bottom and for rust and pitting. Check out the muzzle end very closely for cleaning rod wear too and to see if its been recrowned, needs recrowning or counterboring, if it does need c'boring turn and burn, pass on it.

3. Check out the matching numbers,  the receiver number should match the bolt number and i would accept nothing less.  Any other matching numbers is a freebe, as long as these two numbers match your good to go.  Most of the swede mausers i have seen in the past 5 years most of them have just the receiver and bolt with matching numbers.

4.  Checkout the condition of the stock/wood for cracks at the rear of the receiver top and bottom near the trigger guard and on the bottom in the front of the trigger guard housing near the front of the floorplate.

5. The condition of the bluing this is up to you I have seen it all when it comes to how much bluing is left.  If its between 99% to 80% its a good buy.  I have seen them 50% and under too.

6. The price???  Right now its tough on saying whats a buy and whats too high because we can't see the rifle to tell if its a great buy or not.  I have seen the swede's lately going for around $225 to $250 for a decent looking swede, i'd even go up to purdy looking/very good condition too.
I'm very fussy when i look at condition of the swede mauser vs. the price.
If its a real purdy one and it speaks to me I can't turn down buying it and if it has fiddleback/tiger striping its all over but the crying its going home with at any price if i have enough cash but i do have my limits on how much i will spend too.  I have seen some wacky prices on the swede mausers too I have seen real dogs going for $450 these were beyond poor condition.  It pays to wait and look till you see one that talks to you and you will know when it happens. The carl gustaf prices will be the lowest,  the oberndorf prices will be the next highest and the husqvarna prices will be the highest unless its a M94 carbine none of them are cheap.($500 to $1,200)  Prices may vary on the different manufacturers and models too.  We must remember the M94 is rare.

So the prices are;

1. Carl Gustaf  M96, M96/38  $200 to $225 average in good/very good condition.

2. Oberndorf   M96, M96/38   $225 to $250 average in good/very good condition.

3. Husqvarna  M96(HSR),  M38  $250 to $275 average and they can run up to $300+ too in good/very good condition. The husqvarna m38 is the only new manufactured m38 all the m96/38's were cutdown/converted m96's.

4. Carl Gustaf & Oberndorf  M94 carbine these can be any price depending on the seller they can run between $500 to $1,200 depending on the condition. These are rare.

5.  Swede m96 M41B sniper rifles.  These came in both the carl gustaf and oberndorf manufacturers and can go for between $1,200 to $1,500+.

6. Swede Ljungman semi-auto.  These were manufactured by husqvarna and sell between $750 to $1,000.

Some finds maybe priced lower too this is the average prices i'm seeing locally at gun shows and some are on the net lately too.  Prices do vary to the area we live in too they can be cheaper and higher too.

When i didn't have a swede mauser Mikey and S.Sumner told me i had to have one to see how great they are and they were right.

Offline james

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2006, 02:59:21 AM »
I never read anything negative about the Swedes and after I got mine I saw why.  I only have a 96 and a 38 but wish I had a 41b or 63 to go with them.   I did pick up a couple of other rifles in 6.5 x 55 just to shoot.
james

Offline Davemuzz

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Swede Mauser 6.5X55
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2006, 03:21:48 AM »
Jack,

In order to check the serial # on the stock, you will have to remove the receiver from the stock, as the S\N on the stock is "engraved"  under the receiver.

Now, to do this you will need the following tools: (1) Large screwdriver (2) Large set of Channel Lock Pliers (3) Terri cloth rag in good shape (4) a piece of brass no wider that 1/4" and maybe 1" long. (5) A convincing look when you tell the seller you've done this before.

The Channel Locks, Terri cloth and brass are just to remove the two barrel locks. Place the terri cloth on the top (wood) and the brass piece on the metal tang. Then use the channel locks to gently squeeze the tang to release the lock and slide it forward. This will remove both barrel locks.

Then just remove the two screws underneath the gun and the receiver and barrel will all come out. Look at the stock and you will find in very large stamp, the S\N of the stock. Compare it against the receiver. If it matches then the brass disc tell's ya something, if not, the brass disc is worthless...and the gun value is much less.

BTW, I have the M96 and it's a shooter. I love to take it to the range. At 200 yards with open sights I bang the gong all day long.

Dave