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Author Topic: Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the factory stock...  (Read 679 times)

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Offline Land_Owner

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Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the factory stock...
« on: April 29, 2006, 05:09:11 PM »
...now there is a fracture from its Model 70 Classic Featherweight bolt indent in the walnut going forward about 4 inches.

How should I go about "wood welding" the stock. It would seem counter productive to "spread" the split for insertion of glue.  What glue?

Any suggestions?


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Offline lefty o

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Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the fa
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2006, 07:05:23 PM »
you may, or may not have to spread it to get some epoxy in there. get yourself a brownells "acraglass" bedding kit, and some surgical tubing. if you do it properly, the repair will be nearly invisible and stronger than the original wood was. good luck.
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Offline ringo

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Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the fa
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2006, 03:37:16 AM »
Spread the crack slightly with a shim, I thin my glue slightly, then use compressed air to blow it into the fracture.  Pull the shim out, clamp appropriately so as not to mar the finish, wipe off excess, let sit for 24hrs.

I am sure there are other ways to repair this, but this has been successful for me.
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Offline gunnut69

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Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the fa
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2006, 12:08:50 PM »
I use small nails flattened and ground to very long angles as wedges to spread the crack. It must be opened to allow the glue admittance but not so far as to run the crack further. I use DevCon 5-ton epoxy and have with great results for many years.. I don't normally thin unless the crack is very tight indeed..  Surgical tubing works great for a clamp just avoid canting the piece that's being repositioned. It must be forced back in correct alignment.. Sometimes blocks of wood can be used to hold the piece being glued in alignment with tubing providing the pressure. Also be certain to ompletely cover the finish on the stock with masking tape. The epoxy isd death to any finish and you will surely get some on it no matter how careful. The tape is cheap insurance,,that's experience talking....
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Offline Judson

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Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the fa
« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2006, 04:02:03 AM »
I used to use epoxy but have found that for cracks the thin "industrial" super glues seem to work better.    Due to the high capilary action you do not have to spreas the crack as the glue is "sucked " into the break.    As a matter of fact many times this stuff will show you that the crack is more extensive then you thought.    Run the glue along the crack and let it get sucked in then keep applying more untill the crack is filled.   I use tape on the inside to make sure the glue does not run all over the place.    Give it a try but watch your fingers or you and your stock may become fast frends and really attached to each other.
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Offline june6th1944

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Dropped my .270 Winchester...Cracked the fa
« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2006, 05:13:28 AM »
I use Satellite City's Hot Stuff glue for cracks.  I've used it on a Mauser and  Type I Japanese rifle.  It seeps/weeps into the cracks, so you don't have to widen the crack for it to get into it as you would w/ epoxy.  Epoxy is too thick for many crack applications.  There are three types of Hot Stuff, depending on the type of crack you've got.  If it's a crack and the wood is still pretty tight then I'd use the original Hot Stuff that is almost like water, but sets up like concrete.  Be careful though b/c it is like water and will seep through the crack, so use it sparingly--you've only got about 5 seconds before it sets up.

Call Brownell's, they sell it.

Good luck.
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