Author Topic: 17 hmr to 17 hornet (Read 1517 times)

Lug · « **on:** May 10, 2006, 07:38:09 AM »

I done a quick search and found several references to 17 hmr to 17 remington. Curious about how it was done. Rimfire frame converted to centerfire or does the rimfire barrels fit up to the centerfire frame?
Justin

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** May 10, 2006, 08:10:38 AM »

Welcome aboard, Lug!! The .17hmr or M2 barrel is rechambered to .17 rem and the ejector is also modified, IIRC. The barrel has to be fitted to an SB2 frame, the SB1 rimfire frame besides not working with a centerfire cartridge, isn't strong enough.

Tim

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=76915&highlight=rem

Lug · « **Reply #2 on:** May 10, 2006, 12:16:26 PM »

Guess I am in luck. I have a SB2 Handi Rifle in .223. It is a NM serial rifle. Now I just have to find a 17 hmr/mach 2 barrel to use.
Justin

quickdtoo · « **Reply #3 on:** May 10, 2006, 12:48:25 PM »

I don't know if I'd put a 17Rem barrel on that frame, it's a 1998 build which H&R won't fit any high pressure barrels to, the .223 has a SAAMI MAP of 55kpsi compared to 52kcup of the .17Rem. If I understand Fred's conversion formula correctly, 52kcup = 60930psi, I'd check it out thoroughly before you proceed.

Tim

Lug · « **Reply #4 on:** May 10, 2006, 02:30:05 PM »

That is why I am planning on one of the smaller 17s. What I have read the 17 hornet is a good starter round for the neophyte wildcatter. One of the guys on the small caliber board I frequent has built a 17 around the 5.7x28 case that has very similar performance to the 17 hornet. If I was going to go with a rimless 17 I would go with the 17 mach IV. From the reports I have read there is less fouling with the mach IV as compared to the 17 Remington.
Justin

trotterlg · « **Reply #5 on:** May 10, 2006, 02:57:12 PM »

The 17 Remington conversion I did was on an older Handi .223 frame and I had no problems. The 17 Remington uses basically the same brass as a .223, (really a .204 is a necked up 17 Remington) and the pressures are simular. Larry

quickdtoo · « **Reply #6 on:** May 10, 2006, 03:24:19 PM »

Larry, as I recollect, you had vertical stringing problems with the 17Rem barrel, that's why you sold it to Matt. Perhaps the older frame was the culprit??

trotterlg · « **Reply #7 on:** May 10, 2006, 05:05:40 PM »

Well, you could be right about a "soft" frame, I had never thought about that. We will see how it does on a newer frame. I was also thinking the other day that one way to make the lock up consistant would be to purposely set up the barrel latch up at the end of the latch travel, that way the barrel would always be locked up the exact same way each time. Wish I had thought about trying that earlier. Larry

Lug · « **Reply #8 on:** May 31, 2006, 09:24:27 AM »

Larry,
Did you ream the barrel yourself or hired it out?
Justin

trotterlg · « **Reply #9 on:** May 31, 2006, 02:43:17 PM »

I sent it out to this guy, I also had the barrel tapered from in front of the barrel stud to about .550 at the muzzel and re-blued. Larry

http://www.vtgunsmiths.com/tis/tisindex.html

aulrich · « **Reply #10 on:** May 31, 2006, 03:43:35 PM »

If you were staying to a low pressure sort of loading 17 Ackely Hornet would a barrel liner like those used to re-line rimfires work. The Idea is take a 22 hornet barrel install a liner and rechamber?

trotterlg · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2006, 04:01:46 PM »

Probably be easier to just turn down a .17 barrel and install it in a shotgun barrel. Larry

Lug · « **Reply #12 on:** June 01, 2006, 06:33:40 AM »

Larry,
Glad to see that I am not the only one to think of this option. I have seen this done with Martini rifles. Some of the calibers that the small caliber guys are working with are not offered in any shape by NEF like .10, .12, .14, 5mm, .19. What I was considering was one of the large bore handi barrel, make a cast of the chamber and then machine the barrel blank to fit from the chamber to the muzzle. Haven't decided if it would be better to use a tight slip fit at room temp and rely on epoxy or silver solder, or make it an interference fit and install the barrel/chamber liner like a vavle guide. Since most of the sub calibers are used for varmints that would make a natural bull barrel.
Justin

quickdtoo · « **Reply #13 on:** June 01, 2006, 07:16:21 AM »

Mcace does custom inserts for anyone without machine shop capability.

Tim

http://www.mcace.com/rifleinserts.html

trotterlg · « **Reply #14 on:** June 01, 2006, 01:49:39 PM »

I think the real way to go would be to take a 12 gauge barrel, cut it off at the end of the chamber, bore it out some and thread it. Then turn the barrel and thread it to match, use a barrel nut like Savage does and you will be all set. Plus it is a dead easy job. On a rimless cartridge you could just let the entire back of the cartridge stick out of the new barrel breach and not cut any extractor notch at all. I think I would drill a couple of vent holes in the shotgun section at the breach to vent off any gasses if you blow a case of pop a primer, but that is real easy. You could then fine tune the headspace to anything you like. Larry

georgeld · « **Reply #15 on:** June 07, 2006, 06:08:32 PM »

of this same thing.

Larry:
Know I've been a pest to you lately, but.
I have a 700, Rem .17 barrel with a shot out throat.

Just mic'd it: Midway it's .677", muzzle is .622".
Was thinking about cutting the .17 barrel off ahead of the chamber and
rechambering for this .17x28mm I've been talking about. OR since a couple guys have sent me .17 Squirrel dummies to consider. May just go that way because of brass availability, but, that'll mean much more case forming which I was hoping to avoid most of.

Anyway, what I'm getting at. Would it be better to just turn this barrel down and slip it inside the .12ga, or get a .20??

How much of the shotgun barrel should be left with the .17 expoxied inside it? I'm not going to mess with trying to solder it. After reading the Brownell's expoxy barrel lining papers they so graciously sent for the asking.

Thanks again,
George