Author Topic: Swedish Mauser Accuracy (Read 2496 times)

Roudy · « **on:** May 11, 2006, 02:20:06 AM »

I have two Swedish Mausers, a M96 and a M38 Husqvarna. The M96 is exceedingly accurate but the M38 has trouble keeping 5 shots in a 'washtub' at 50 yards. The actions and bores on both rifles seem pristine, and I use the same ammo for both rifles.

Where can I find some information to figure out what is wrong with the M38? I'm guessing that the problem is the stock bedding, but not sure. Overall condition of the rifle is very good to excellent with a bright bore....just can't get it to shoot.

I'd like to keep the M38 in original military condition as opposed to chopping it into a sportster.

Roudy

james · « **Reply #1 on:** May 11, 2006, 02:30:40 AM »

I'm guessing you are on the right track. I put my 1916 96/38 in a Ramline stock and floated the barrel. It now outshoots my 1915 M96. The 1916 had an elm stock that I wanted to preserve so the synthetic stock keeps me from putting more dings in the original.
james

Mikey · « **Reply #2 on:** May 11, 2006, 02:40:23 AM »

Roudy - I'll go with Jame's thoughts on this one. If your M38 does not have matching stock and receiver numbers then you may have a mismatched stock and action which will require stock work or bedding to fix. When I first started playing with my M38 I found the stock and action mismatched and the forestock bearing significantly on the barrel. Once I resolved that problem she shot much better and gave me indications of very good accuracy. After I completed my stockwork she would give me snake-eyes at 150m, and still does. HTH. Mikey.

Roudy · « **Reply #3 on:** May 11, 2006, 08:08:24 AM »

Thanks for the feedback, all the metal numbers match, but I didn't check for a number on the stock.

Can you tell me how the barrel is supposed to fit in the forestock?

Should it be 'freefloated' so that the stock does not touch the barrel or is the barrel supposed to bear on the stock at the fore end?

Roudy

Mikey · « **Reply #4 on:** May 12, 2006, 01:38:32 AM »

I don't know if a lot of thought was given to how the barrel should fit into the stock, except that the barrel channel was supposed to be straight and not bear on the barrel. The inside of that Swedish stock may even have steps cut to match the steps in the barrel but, a good free-floating would help that considerably.

I free-floated mine before I completely sporterized it and it worked. I bedded the action and the barrel channel to the end of the chamber area and made certain the barrel was free of both the stock and the handguard all the way to the muzzle. The bayonet lug is attached to the stock and needs minor work not to bear on the barrel and the handguard just sits on the stock and is held in place by the barrel or stock bands, and it is fairly easy to do. That should help. Mikey.

Roudy · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2006, 05:37:23 PM »

Thanks Mikey, I've started to clear the barrel channel, just need to finish it up and test fire. May glass bed the action if the free floating doesn't do the trick.

Roudy

Slamfire · « **Reply #6 on:** May 13, 2006, 05:52:03 PM »

I feel your pain, I had a 96 that just plain wouldn't shoot anything smaller than 4" groups at 100 yards. I tried every brand and weight of factory ammo, handloads usin' Hornady and Sierra bullets. Restocked with a synthetic, pillar bedded. Shortened the barrel length in two inch increments down to 24" with recessed crown. Never saw a bit of improvement, still shot 4" round groups at 100 yards. :roll:

rockbilly · « **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2006, 06:32:56 AM »

Glass bed and free float the barrel. Glass the action tight. To do this, after getting the wood ready, I coat the gun with a good covering of petroleum jelly, mix the glass and cover the barrel channel and action paying attention to the recoil points to ensure they are covered. Put the stripped out action and trigger housing in and tighten the screws. Set her aside and let dry. After a couple of days, remove the screws and very carefully remove the barreled action and trigger housing. Sand all excess g;ass away, lightly sand the barrell channel to the point that a piece of dollar bill will slid freely between the wood and barrel all the way to the action. Remember, this takes time, do not attempt to do it if you are in a hurry. :oops: If correctly accomplished, the wood area around the action will look like it was machined out and the fit will have no gaps or loose places. I have also improved the performance of several sporting firearms with the same procedure.

The next thing I would do is check the crown. The way the mil surp weapons are handled is harsh, it is possible that at some point the end of the barrel took a hit and there is a small ding on the crown.

If it won't shoot after this, send her to me, I have a place for old retired Sweds that don't please their current owners.......... :wink:

Roudy · « **Reply #8 on:** May 18, 2006, 01:46:47 PM »

Well guys, I have good news! I cleared the barrel channel, effectivly free floated the barrel and took the rifle to the range yesterday. I removed the top handguard, front barrel band and cleaning rod then fired for a group at 50 yards. With the military sight and my tired old eyes I got a 2 1/8 inch group. Great news because I can at least make a 6.5X55 sporter out of it!

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE....almost as an afterthought I re-assembled all the parts I had removed including the cleaning rod and front barrrel band and upper stock. I wasn't expecting very much, especially since the front barrel band put considerable upward pressure on the barrel. Shot 5 more shots at 50 yards and shot a 1 7/8 inch group.

Looks like this rifle is going to remain in it's military garb. Glass bedding may improve the group a little bit, but with the sights and my eyes I'll take it as it is!

Roudy