Author Topic: groups stringing (Read 1026 times)

lostsniper308 · « **on:** June 21, 2006, 12:37:13 PM »

What does a stringing group tell me about what needs to be changed to stop it? The 165gr Nosler Ball-tip on 43.8 Hodgdon Varget load with the rifles original lams made 1" 100yrd groups but now with the synthetic handi type strings. Is the lug screw too loose or too tight, or something else? i finally got a scope that works so im finally making real progress with the rifle

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** June 21, 2006, 01:07:36 PM »

You musta missed safetysheriff's thread on stringing!

Tim

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=77507&highlight=stringing

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 21, 2006, 03:39:22 PM »

I got diagianol strings

DanielWGriggs · « **Reply #3 on:** June 21, 2006, 03:59:58 PM »

at what distance? Do u use wind flags? Run a business card between the barrel and the stock to the screw. Any bindings sand lightly in that area.
add a pressure point if none are found and see how this affects groups. As Quick said refridgerator magnet material works for this. :-D

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2006, 05:08:19 PM »

100yrds no flags but it was a zero value 6oclock wind.

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 22, 2006, 11:52:13 AM »

can you clarify the refridgerator magnet trick?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #6 on:** June 22, 2006, 01:27:16 PM »

It's not a trick, just use the material for making a pressure point between the barrel and forend. It's flexible and weather proof and won't soak up water, so it's very consistent unlike other materials.

You can also bed barrel in the forend in RTV silicone, there's a link to it in the FAQ.

Tim

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 22, 2006, 06:10:37 PM »

i put an o-ring on the lug before and now one between the forend tip and barrel, is this sufficient? I never thought Magnet material as flexible, and where did you add this for a pressure point.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #8 on:** June 22, 2006, 06:20:22 PM »

The only one I've done is on the mannlicher forend about 4" from the muzzle, on a Handi forend there's not much room to experiment with it positioned somewhere in front of the screw towards the muzzle.

Tim

DanielWGriggs · « **Reply #9 on:** June 23, 2006, 05:01:54 PM »

ls308

Think of your barrel as a tuning fork that vibrates up down and back and forth. The magnet material we speak of is thin, some people hand out business cards made of the stuff and it can be moved forward and back in front of the screw under the forarm until u get the desired results.

Also check your stock weld this must be the same every time bullet type may also have to be changed for best results what type of target is being used. Are you able to get a consistant sight picture.

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 23, 2006, 07:10:56 PM »

sight picture is no problem, I read in the link about disbalance of the rifle so i added weights to the butt-stock (survivor) to even it out, it does jump quite a bit on recoiling. Also my bullets were seated quite higher than they used to be so that may be it too.

dodd3 · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2006, 09:07:10 PM »

llostsniper308 heres a little trick you can use, put a line of talcum powder on the top of your barrel the full length of the barrel dont bother about the breech area. shoot the gun and look at where the line of talcum powder was you should have a patern like this, >>>>>>>>>>|<<<<<<<<<<<<< or it could be this <<<<<<<<<|>>>>>>>>>>> bin a while since i did it. where the patern starts to go in the oposit direction that is the dead spot in the barrel if that spot is over the forend then put your preasure there if it is forward of the forend then make sure there is no preasure between the barrel and the forend. i used this trick on my buff classic,my dead spot was 5" in front of the forend that is where i rest the barrel of my shooting sticks.it does work hope this helps.
bernie :wink:

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 24, 2006, 10:31:46 AM »

basically i can use this trick to find a place to rest along the forend if the dead spot is within there? I know there is no pressure on the barrel forward the lug but i can't get a card in behind it to check there (or does it matter).
does the dead spot signifiy the spot where the barrel doesn't move?

dodd3 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 24, 2006, 03:11:47 PM »

lostsniper308 what quick said to do with is is the same thing but with the talk you find the dead spot riteaway then just use the fridge magnent sa quick said.
bernie

Fred M · « **Reply #14 on:** June 24, 2006, 07:04:55 PM »

Speedy Gonzales is a top flight Benchrest shooter. When he talks about vertical stringing he means 0.200" as indicated on the the target shown.

When we talk about vertical stringing on a Handi we are talking about 1.5" to 3or4" and that is a totally different animal. Stringing in a Handy is caused mostly by loose joints.

The forearm will and cause some stringing but nothing like slop in the action.

The forearm is best addressed by complete dampening with uplift pressure on the forearm tip and isolation dampening on the barrel stud screw. ( o-ring).

lostsniper308 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2006, 07:07:19 PM »

I do have an O-ring on the forearm and i know i got a tight lockup, i've seen this thing put 1" groups.