Author Topic: I finally started the base for my mortar (Read 2287 times)

jeeper1 · « **on:** June 25, 2006, 07:56:38 AM »

A few months ago Powderkeg built me a golf ball mortar. I bought a couple of boards a few weeks later. For some reason affordable hardwood is hard to find where I live.
The only hardwood I could afford turned out to be African Purpleheart wood at $4.40 a board foot. I ended up getting two 1x5x8's because that was all they had.
Anyway a few days ago I finally felt up to starting on the build. After looking around for a place to set up my saw, I settled for where the wheelchair ramp makes a 180. I took a picture of the setup after I finished cutting the pieces showing how I did it.

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Then I made a pattern of the side showing the hole locations. Knowing that my dislike of woodworking keeps me from doing even fair quality work, I made a setup for the drilling of the hole with the hopes of getting consistent repeatability in hole placement. I centered punched marks into one board to use for setting up. The setup worked great, half inch bit made half inch holes and the half inch threaded rod fit Thu all the pieces of wood on a test fit. but it was a tad tight taking it apart.
The setup.
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As you can see, a piece of 1x8 pine clamped to the drill press table and positioned where needed. Three nails to serve as guides for the boards and it worked perfectly.
I did decide that the holes at one end of the inside boards will be opened up to 9/16th's just for ease of final assembly. I still need to drill the 1.25 inch holes for the trunnion when I decide the final board orientation AND I find my set of forstner bits.

To be continued after I find the bits and drill some more holes

Santa Dave · « **Reply #1 on:** June 25, 2006, 08:42:17 AM »

Jeeper,
Lookin' good!
But If you tell me you are going to PAINT that I WILL call you names!
Dave

jeeper1 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 25, 2006, 12:07:13 PM »

I am not even sure if I should clearcoat it to protect the color and keep the wood easy to clean.

Santa Dave · « **Reply #3 on:** June 25, 2006, 01:14:41 PM »

I'm someone who knows will jump in, but i wonder if a sanding and then several coats of tung oil or something like you would use on a rifle stock would work. it would have have both visual and tactile appeal that way.

bpsteve · « **Reply #4 on:** June 25, 2006, 02:08:24 PM »

Sanding with 220 grit paper and wiping on a couple of coats of Min-Wax Tung oil finish is all it takes for purpleheart.
Steve R

Rickk · « **Reply #5 on:** June 25, 2006, 04:07:04 PM »

Jeeper,

for what it's worth I used 1/2 inch glue pegs between all my laminated pieces. I have 4 pegs in each lamination. It help keep things lined up and I suspect the lamination job is a bit stronger. The side pieces are only drilled 1/2 way thru, so the pegs don't show.

It looks like your boards are all 1 inch... most of mine were wider. You may have to trim the pegs shorter to make them all fit in the same axis.

I numbered the pieces and marked the left front top to keep the order. Then I used each piece as a template for the next piece. I only glued one lamination together each night to keep things managable.

Unless your wood is really flat get lots of clamps. Where I live the humidity has been terrible for months, so the wood has been doing all sorts of crazy things. The clamps were needed to get the seems tight.

I'm almost done now... I put a coat of epoxy paint on everything two days ago. The rain has the air so damp that the paint is still wet in spots... not much I can do but wait... come-on sunshine.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 25, 2006, 04:33:33 PM »

The boards are 13/16th's.

Rickk · « **Reply #7 on:** June 25, 2006, 04:44:01 PM »

13/16 ... Way easier to bend into submission than the 2 to 3 inch white oak I am fighting with.

Still, some pegs to guarantee they will stay put when you apply the glue will help you along, and probably add strength as well.

Keep us posted !

jeeper1 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 26, 2006, 12:02:11 PM »

Update
After 2+ hours of searching I found the set of forstner bits. I really need to have a yard sale.
I finished drilling all the holes and did a test fit on the trunnion. The holes are so tight I won't even need to add any bedding compound for full contact and support of the trunnion.
Next is finishing the trunnion slot and hogging out so the barrel can tilt.

Double D · « **Reply #9 on:** June 27, 2006, 05:49:08 AM »

Something to keep in mind. The Trunnion is not fully counter sunk below bed level. The Trunnion strap should bear on the trunnion to keep the tube from rotating.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 28, 2006, 11:09:11 AM »

Update, today I cut the wood away to turn the holes into a slot. I hate sabre saws, I can't ever get them to cut straight. I then tried to smooth the now slots ans straighten them with a small drum sander. That is some hard wood, I wore out 3 of the drums and they still are too small and crooked.

I started looking for my sanders (3) and couldn't find any (natcherly). I still need to have a yard sale!
I guess I will need to go to Home Depot with money.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 01, 2006, 03:40:39 PM »

I got to Home Depot Friday. As per usual the place again didn't have what I needed. At least the had something I could use. I settled for a cheap $30 B&D pad sander and a sanding block for the slot.
The coarsest sandpaper was 60 grit. I could have used 36 grit or coarser even.

That african purple wood is harder than aluminum.

The sanding block and 60 grit was less than useless.
I lost count of the number of 60 grit sanding drums I wore out trying to make a hole to get the barrel to tip over. Friday night I got it over to 65 degrees. After four hours today it's now at 51 degrees. As I expected I screwed up the hole, it's UGLY. That's good enough for making some noise on the fourth.
I started sanding the top today, I don't think I'll need the 120 grit paper I bought as the 60 makes a very smooth surface.
I still can't find any of my sanders and I really need my belt sander.

Double D · « **Reply #12 on:** July 01, 2006, 05:53:56 PM »

Chisels and a magic marker!!!

Wipe the magic marker on barrel. Set the barrelinthe trunnion slot an d tip it into the cutout. Pull the barrel out. Use the chisel to cut out any black spot left by the magic marker.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 01, 2006, 06:07:57 PM »

Note to self; buy a chisel preferably with an arc to it.

Rickk · « **Reply #14 on:** July 01, 2006, 06:23:29 PM »

1/2, 3/4. 1 inch chisels

If you go im from the side mostly rather than the "long way", for some reason it will follow the curve better. It did with mine anyway.

With mine it was way to easy (with white oak non-the-less) to take off too much. I was painting mine, so Fiberglass and epoxy made it all better after I messed it up.

You have way tougher job ahead.

I used some of my kid's chalk on the barrel to mark the high spots.

keep the pictures coming... I was where you were two weeks ago... I gotta see how you make out.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 15, 2006, 12:21:30 PM »

Update. My sister showed up today and between the two of us we took apart my shop, threw out some stuff and search through everything, I definately don't have a belt sander. I guess it's back to Home Depot to buy one so I can finish the base.

Powder keg · « **Reply #16 on:** July 15, 2006, 12:43:41 PM »

Sounds like my shop. You'll find your sander after you go get a new one and use it

intoodeep · « **Reply #17 on:** July 15, 2006, 01:04:48 PM »

I guess I'm just lazy....

But, I find it easier to use a dremel with a sanding drum rather than a chisel. I've done both Beer Can size and Golfball size and they turn out pretty smooth. The Golfball size goes pretty quick. I think I've put a million miles on my dremel....

Rickk · « **Reply #18 on:** July 15, 2006, 03:01:51 PM »

A really sharp chisel will take off tons of wood in a few minutes. Save the sandpaper drums for the finsih work and use a chisel to get most of the unwanted stuff out of the way.

Double D · « **Reply #19 on:** July 15, 2006, 05:48:14 PM »

Agreed on the chishel, and I have a million miles on my third Dremel. Use the chisel and a good mallet for hogging!

jeeper1 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 30, 2006, 12:28:26 PM »

About a week and a half ago I hit Home Depot and bought a B&D belt sander, the Dragster model. Ninety dollars with a 3pack of 36 grit and a 5pack 120 grit. I'm beginning to think it would have been cheaper to pay someone to build it for me. At this point in time I have finished using the 36 and 60 grit belts and just started in with the 120 grit belts.

Santa Dave · « **Reply #21 on:** July 30, 2006, 01:07:09 PM »

Yeah but it's it's gonna SO Gorgeous when you're done!
AND You can say "I DID IT" all by my lonesome.
Dave
Anybody got ideas for decorating "Santa's cannon"

Michael Az · « **Reply #22 on:** July 30, 2006, 03:06:22 PM »

Looks really good jeeper. You could probably have bought that base for $200. But that would be foolish when you can make it for $600.
Michael

jeeper1 · « **Reply #23 on:** July 30, 2006, 04:08:28 PM »

Quote

You could probably have bought that base for $200. But that would be foolish when you can make it for $600.

It's starting to look that way, I already have more in the base than the cost of the tube. Fortunately I'll get to keep the sanders.
I really thought the block style base would be cheaper and easier. I am not looking forward to using the rest of the purple wood to build the carriage for my little bronze howitzer.

Double D · « **Reply #24 on:** July 30, 2006, 05:16:58 PM »

It's going to take a couple of coats a of Green paint to cover that purple wood.

Powder keg · « **Reply #25 on:** July 30, 2006, 06:26:11 PM »

Now everyone knows why I don't like to sell the carriages with my tubes!!! Lots more work. That carriage I built for Santa Dave's Pack parrott, took for eeeeever. Great Job Jeeper1!!! It will look super when your done.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 30, 2006, 07:00:18 PM »

Double D, I know you are kidding about the green paint, however if/when I ever get it as smooth as I want it will get a couple of clear coats to seal and protect that expensive wood.

Double D · « **Reply #27 on:** July 30, 2006, 07:27:47 PM »

Kidding...moi?

I am trying to give you a good natured ribbing about it, but sometimes it hard to communicate good fun teasing on the internet.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 16, 2006, 04:55:19 PM »

I finally got the base relatively smooth. I have put three coats of clear polyurethane on it. I still need to sand and add more coats to it. The threaded rod is still long because I'm not sure if I'm going to add handles or what kind if I do.
picture without flash

picture with flash

Questions:
Handles, yes or no?
What type?
Should I paint all the metal parts black to match the barrel?

GGaskill · « **Reply #29 on:** August 16, 2006, 05:03:43 PM »

Interesting it is red now instead of purple. I liked the purple better. I gather you aren't going to chamfer the top corners.

Black should be a good contrast to the red so I would go with black.