Author Topic: Powder and fuse (Read 1555 times)

Michael Az · « **on:** July 04, 2006, 11:58:02 PM »

Guess this is the first of my questions. I am going to build a golf ball Coehorn and would like to know the best powder and fuse to use. My print doesn't show the diameter of the fuse hole {unless I missed it} should it be 1/8"? After I get the golf ball mortar built, I would like to build a soda can mortar and was wondering if the 1/8" fuse would work for both? I noticed that one seller has mostly Chinese made fuse. I'm not crazy about trying that. Thanks
Michael

Double D · « **Reply #1 on:** July 05, 2006, 06:49:16 AM »

Fuse hole should be 1 1/2 calibers.Â If the fuse is 1/8" in then fuse whole should beÂ Â 1/8" plus 1/16" or 3/16".Â

jeeper1 · « **Reply #2 on:** July 05, 2006, 09:42:14 AM »

Use cannon grade BP.
I use American made fuse.
Some of that chinese fuse jumps all over the place when lit on the ground which makes me wonder what it will do in a fuse hole.
Ditto what Double D said about the fuse hole diameter. I'm going to have to open up the diameters slightly on my cannon and mortar after the problems I had yesterday.

Michael Az · « **Reply #3 on:** July 05, 2006, 12:33:15 PM »

Thanks for the help fellows. I didn't ask that the right way about the fuse size I guess. I ment should I use 3/16, 1/8, or 1/4 for fuse in a golf ball mortar. I know the hole needs to be oversize for the fuse. I know 1/4 sounds huge for a small mortar, but just trying to get my ducks lined up before I start.
Is anybody else having trouble with the discussion board? I read about the hacker thing. I have tried to get here all day and couldn't but I notice you two fellows answered while I was trying to get on. I have gone to other discussion boards with no problems today.
Thanks again
Michael

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #4 on:** July 06, 2006, 03:15:31 AM »

The hole for the fuse should be about 1-1/2 times the diameter of the fuse.

The smaller the hole, the less pressure vented through it. This becomes very significant with the smaller bore diameters.

You can go less than 1-1/2 times the diameter, but you will run into fouling problems and it becomes hard to instert the fuse.
With proper clearance, the fuse also blows clear and is less likely to leave burning fragments inside the bore.

Evil Dog · « **Reply #5 on:** July 06, 2006, 06:11:40 PM »

I prefer the 1/8" diameter fuse and will only buy the US made variety. You will also hear it called Visco fuse.

Michael Az · « **Reply #6 on:** July 06, 2006, 07:24:26 PM »

Thanks Evil Dog, I appreciate it.
Michael

Rickk · « **Reply #7 on:** July 08, 2006, 12:03:13 PM »

Who knows more about making fuse than the Chinese?

1/8 fuse is the most common size.

.200 is a good size hole, as anything .187 (3/16 inch) will pass thru it. A 3/16 brass rod for puncturing the powder bags or cleaning. A .22 brush (slightly worn) will fit in a .200 hole nicely

Evil Dog · « **Reply #8 on:** July 08, 2006, 03:29:37 PM »

For cleaning the fuse hole, get a 17 caliber rifle cleaning kit. It usually has one 17 caliber brush and a cleaning rod consisting of 3 threaded segments. Just take each segment and bend a ring loop on the non-female threaded end.... will give you 3 cleaning rods. That and 2 spare brushes and you now have 3 vent cleaning brushes that didn't cost much at all to make.

Michael Az · « **Reply #9 on:** July 08, 2006, 06:03:08 PM »

Who knows more about making fuse than the Chinese?

Hah, I guess they did invent it about 10 million years ago.

Thanks Evil Dog, good tips there.
Michael

CU_Cannon · « **Reply #10 on:** July 14, 2006, 01:54:36 AM »

On my golf ball mortar I used 1/8” fuse. I’ve found that a #7 drill is about right. It is small enough to limit the amount of pressure loss through the vent but still allows the fuse to blow clear. There have been times when the fuse did not blow clear but a brass rod and vent brush cleaned it out well. If the vent hasn’t been cleared you must take extra care to ensure there are no burning embers. With proper loading techniques it is not a problem.

Michael Az · « **Reply #11 on:** July 14, 2006, 03:38:39 AM »

Thanks CU, I appreciate the advise. I should have two barrels finished this weekend. I had enough material for two, so thought with all the tools set up might as well make two. The barrels are fun but I dread the bases as I don't have a wood shop.
Michael

jeeper1 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 14, 2006, 08:00:59 AM »

Michael Az, from your comments I get the impression you don't like working with wood anymore than I do. Therefore may I suggest that you make a sled type base rather than the block method I used. I you want drawings for ideas let me know as I have several drawings as well as pictures I can email you.

Little Guy · « **Reply #13 on:** July 14, 2006, 08:50:53 AM »

I use the 3mm (1/8") and i get it in 20 ft lengths for $6.00 at atlas fire works stores. They call it safty fuse. I have never had a problem putting it in my 3/16" hole in my beer can mortar.
Have fun! Don't get hurt.

Michael Az · « **Reply #14 on:** July 14, 2006, 09:15:42 AM »

Quote from: jeeper1 on July 14, 2006, 08:00:59 AM

Therefore may I suggest that you make a sled type base rather than the block method I used. I you want drawings for ideas let me know as I have several drawings as well as pictures I can email you.

Jeeper1 that sounds like a great idea! I have even given much thought to making a tracer attachment for my vertical mill to cut that radius in the base. If you would email those photos and prints I would much appreciate it! I will send you a pm with my email. I don't have a wood shop and always hate getting wood dust all over the machine shop.
Thanks
And thanks Little Guy for the info.
Michael

GGaskill · « **Reply #15 on:** July 14, 2006, 11:28:28 AM »

Put a coarse pitch blade on your band cut off saw and roll it outside.

But if you are going to really get into artillery making, you will need some wood working tools unless you restrict your stuff to the latest (post-Civil War) where metal carriages and mounts became more common.

Michael Az · « **Reply #16 on:** July 14, 2006, 12:15:09 PM »

I think I have a 5 tooth per inch blade on now. Yes, I think the reality is you are right about the woodshop. I do have another shop that is empty and about the right size for a woodshop. Guess I had better start keeping my eye open for wood tools!
Thanks George
Michael

Rock6.3 · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2012, 07:59:57 AM »

Quote from: Evil Dog on July 06, 2006, 06:11:40 PM

I prefer the 1/8" diameter fuse and will only buy the US made variety. You will also hear it called Visco fuse.

While the Visco Cannon Fuse works very well in my Golf Ball Mortar, I found that the waterproof coating tended to bubble then dip burning lacquer on my wood mortar bed. I now have burned depressions in the bed.

I contacted the seller ( cannonfuse.com ) and they recommended using the Chinese product on anything that did not require waterproof fuse as this would prevent the wood damage.

Double D · « **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2012, 08:37:00 AM »

Another way to avoid the burn marks is to shorten the fuse or use a quill.

onegreatshot · « **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2012, 09:17:43 AM »

Rock 6.3 I too had the burn problem and now know the fix. Thanks

Ex 49'er · « **Reply #20 on:** July 17, 2012, 06:30:10 PM »

Quote from: Double D on July 17, 2012, 08:37:00 AM

Another way to avoid the burn marks is to shorten the fuse or use a quill.

I put a metal plate behind the vent on my mortar so the burn marks wouldn't mar the wood.

5kwkdw3 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 17, 2012, 08:39:17 PM »

In my pieces, they all have an 1/8" fuse hole and use 3/32" fuse, and it works like a champ. Regardless of where you buy your fuse, there's a good chance that it's Chinese made. I get my fuse here... http://www.cannonfuse.com/store/pc/Chinese-Visco-Cannon-Fuse-2p518.htm and what I've noticed is that it's inexpensive, quick to show up at your door, accurate as far as burn rate is concerned and you get a bunch of it for the money invested. Smithy.