Author Topic: My new-old DW Supermag .357 Maximum (Read 2355 times)

heggis · « **on:** July 08, 2006, 08:41:29 AM »

Hi to you all.

I bought few months ago an used DW SuperMag in .357 Maximum. There are some small flaws (like front sight is a bit crooked

), but nothing major. I have no idea on the year, except what read from the faq. The serial is not big though, E005390 Monson.

I've shot only around 200 shots of 357Mag through it just as testing. Today recieved a batch of Maximum shells so I'll be shooting them in the future

Also as I know you propably don't like to see any pictures so I took only 4

Very large picture: cliketiclick

Very large picture: cliketiclick

Very large picture: cliketiclick

Very large picture: cliketiclick

DWTim · « **Reply #1 on:** July 10, 2006, 07:23:49 AM »

What a beauty! Is this the one I posted about a while back (in CT)?

heggis · « **Reply #2 on:** July 10, 2006, 09:05:08 AM »

Sorry but no. This gun resides in Finland

My next trouble is what reloading dies to get. Propably pick this and that from different manufacturers. I'm open to suggestion.

Few that I have thought are

Hornady Custom Grade New Dimension Nitride Full Length Sizer Die 38 Special and 357 Magnum
Lyman Neck Expander M Die 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 357 Maximum
Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die 38 Special and 357 Magnum

My problem is the seater die... Redding Competition Seater Die would be nice, but a bit expensive. Since I ain't gonna compete (atleast seriously) I would be ok with a simpler one... oh the choises

RLB · « **Reply #3 on:** July 27, 2006, 01:54:18 PM »

perhaps I'm wrong but won't a set of .357 maximum dies also work for .357 mag and .38 spl??

heggis · « **Reply #4 on:** July 30, 2006, 01:03:41 AM »

Quote from: RLB on July 27, 2006, 01:54:18 PM

perhaps I'm wrong but won't a set of .357 maximum dies also work for .357 mag and .38 spl??

Yes they do. Or perhaps the way it should be said that most 357 Magnum dies work for Maximum. RCBS is pretty much the only one that doesn't fit for Maximum (from the basic Magnum sets). It's a guestion of lenght, nothing else.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 30, 2006, 06:53:52 AM »

Heggis,

Your abilities with a handgun may be far greater than mine, but I don't see a necessity for all of the specialty dies. I use Lee carbides for .38 Special, .357 Mag and .360 DW and don't have a discernable problem. I do use a Lee taper crimp die, since my NEF Handi rifle doesn't like roll crimps, but it also works fine in my DW 715. The Lee dies will load all 4 cartridges without buying extra dies, like RCBS.

The Handi rifle will shoot close to 1" groups at 100 yards, so I wouldn't think my loading technique/equipment is at fault.

DWTim · « **Reply #6 on:** July 30, 2006, 08:06:07 AM »

Quote from: heggis on July 30, 2006, 01:03:41 AM

RCBS is pretty much the only one that doesn't fit for Maximum (from the basic Magnum sets). It's a guestion of lenght, nothing else.

How so? I'm using RCBS dies for my l'il model 12, but once I get a replacement barrel for the model 40, I was hoping I could load for that as well.

eroyd · « **Reply #7 on:** July 30, 2006, 03:46:02 PM »

So just to clarify. If I buy Lee's 357 mag dies, I can use them to reload 357 Maximum?

unspellable · « **Reply #8 on:** August 01, 2006, 03:01:03 AM »

Remove the front sight and put it back on, that may correct your tilt.

be aware that while the Dan Wesson is marked 357 maximum it is actually chambered for the 357 SuperMag which is slightly longer than the 357 Maximum. (Don't ask me why they marked it 357 maximum. I'm still trying to figure out why the put the caliber on the shroud rather than the frame.)

357 maximum: Case length 1.605 Max OAL 1.900

357 SuperMag Case length 1.610 Max OAL 2.025

With the right loads, the 357 Supermag will edge out the 357 Maximum. The longer OAL allows proper seating with heavy bullets. I have been buying new empty Winchester 357 Maximum brass and find it comes out of the box at 1.610.

For full house loads you will find things happier with bullet weights from 148 grains up. Hot loads with light bullets may lead to erosion problems. The original intention for this cartridge was heavier bullets, not hyper velocities.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 01, 2006, 06:37:55 PM »

Let me clarify on the die problems. The resizing die has to be long enough to size a Max case and everything else will not have a problem. The expanding die has to be short enough to expand .38 Special cases, everything else can be adjusted for the longer case. The seating/crimping die has to be short enough to seat/crimp .38 Special cases, everything else can be adjusted long enough. Therefore, a Max sizing die with .38 Special expanding die and .38 Special seating/crimping die will load all four lengths. RCBS used to make .357 Mag dies with a .357 Mag length seating/crimping die and you had to buy a .38 Special crimping die, because the die was too long for the .38 Special brass.

Lee dies will load all four lengths of brass.

heggis · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2006, 11:44:28 AM »

Paul pretty much answered the reloading die guestion, so I won't try to explain anything with my english

I'm not a great shooter, not even decent (atleast in my mind). I'm on a very long learning curve (lifetime that is). My main focus is in practical shooting so shooting this revolver is just for pure fun. From what I've learned from reloading on my hunting/target rifle (.260 Rem) and ipsc gun, I just like to have quality stuff. So I don't have anything else to blame than myself

@Unspellable:

Removing and installing the front sight is a tricky guestion. Apparently the previous owner ruined the head (hex? what size?) from the srew so atm it is pretty much stuck there. No room to grab it with pliers or anything. Don't know what to do with it. Propably going to give it to a professional gunsmith to take it off. My homesmithing skills are not that good

Also since my DW is pretty much for fun, I will be shooting 180/200gr bullets. Never liked light and fast. The bigger the umpf the better (as long as it is not sharp). But I will go easy on my gun. Want it to stay in shape

No "going for the max" stuff.

DWTim · « **Reply #11 on:** August 15, 2006, 12:29:13 PM »

Quote from: heggis on August 15, 2006, 11:44:28 AM

Also since my DW is pretty much for fun, I will be shooting 180/200gr bullets. Never liked light and fast. The bigger the umpf the better (as long as it is not sharp). But I will go easy on my gun. Want it to stay in shape No "going for the max" stuff.

Well, you're right on the mark! The whole idea behind The Max is to shoot heavier bullets at the same velocities and pressures as the regular 357. Personally, I don't even approve of shooting diminutive bullets (at high pressures) out of a regular 357, because it accelerates gas erosion.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #12 on:** August 15, 2006, 04:15:59 PM »

DWTim,

I think the errosion problem is pretty much a powder issue, i.e. H110/W296. I've been shooting 125 grs at 1600+ fps for over 30 years and never had an errosion problem, but I don't use H110/W296. DuPont (IMR) powders are quite capable of those velocities, with less recoil, less errosion and better production than H110/W296. Less than an IMR max, 10.0 gr of 800X will clock at 1500 fps with a 125 gr Golden Saber out of a 6" Security Six. However, that's only a 35,300 cup load and the Security Six was designed for 46,000 cup (I would imagine my DW 715 will handle every bit of 46,000 cup too).

heggis · « **Reply #13 on:** August 19, 2006, 05:26:47 AM »

Quote from: heggis on July 08, 2006, 08:41:29 AM

I have no idea on the year, except what read from the faq.

Finally I was able to take the barrel shroud off, it was a little stuck... And found a Finnish CIP stamp from 1987. So production date might be around 1985-87.

I'll propably start reloading with VV N110 (got a jar of it). 180gr bullet and around 17gr load. Should go around 1500fps. Well see as soon as my dies and bullets arrive and I actually have time to go to the range

DWTim · « **Reply #14 on:** August 19, 2006, 05:50:01 AM »

Finally got a replacement barrel for mine. I ordered up some brass and 180 grain FMJ-FP bullets.

But now my barrel tool broke.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 19, 2006, 10:19:06 AM »

Harbor Freight has a watch back adjustable spanner that can be used in situations like that. It has several different pins and is screw adjustable to the proper size, but it doesn't have the bore sized "pilot" the real tool has. Watch Case Opener There's a place for three pins, but only use two of them.

DWTim · « **Reply #16 on:** August 19, 2006, 03:29:05 PM »

Thanks for this! TBH, the pilot is an annoyance that I can do without. It's what's preventing me from using the 375 SM tool in this gun, and it leaves a ring of plastic in the bore. That search link didn't quite come out right. Is this it? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91550

Paul5388 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 19, 2006, 04:24:03 PM »

91550 is the item number I have. I know it will work on .357 Mag size barrel nuts and larger, because I just took the nut off of my 715.

DWTim · « **Reply #18 on:** August 19, 2006, 05:48:50 PM »

OK, 10-Q

heggis · « **Reply #19 on:** August 19, 2006, 10:27:00 PM »

Oh taking a big picture of the front sights "screw" is so much more revealing than looking with your eyes. It might be the wrong way around... oh dear. I guess I'll have think of something.

http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/danwesson/IMG_4709-02_1000.jpg

Paul5388 · « **Reply #20 on:** August 20, 2006, 04:27:00 AM »

Heggis,

That looks almost like it's protruding just a little. If so, you could cut a straight slot in it and use a regular straight slot screwdriver to remove it or, you could use a small punch to bite into the edge and unscrew it by tapping the punch counterclockwise with a small hammer. Other than that, it's going to take an easy out, after it has been drilled, to get it out.

Make sure the threads in the shroud are cleaned back up when you get the screw out.

DWTim · « **Reply #21 on:** August 20, 2006, 05:44:27 AM »

Other suggestions may be a "left-hand" drill bit, run in reverse, or even soldering a tool tip to it and turning it out. I can't imagine it's in there too tight... But, I might be wrong.

heggis · « **Reply #22 on:** August 20, 2006, 06:58:32 AM »

Yes it protrudes a massive 0.018" and thats from the top

I was thinking of doing a cut but just "scared" about the rest of the shroud. It is not in the most perfect condition but wouldn't want to do any more damage to it. I've tried pliers and small puch to try to get it moving but with no luck. Tomorrow i'm going to get some glue, loctite or something and try to move it by gluing a tooltip to it. Just have to be careful not to glue it in place permanently

Drilling will be the last option if nothing else helps.

Paul5388 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 20, 2006, 07:21:49 AM »

You might consider drilling just a little so the drill bit actually penetrates some and then gluing the drill bit in place. That would give more surface area for the glue to hold on to. It may cost a drill bit, but that's cheaper than a visit to a gunsmith.

From what I can see, the attempt with a punch looks like the punch needed to be at more of an angle. I used to use a chisel on larger bolts and made it cut into the side of the head. Then it could be tapped in a counterclockwise direction with success, some times.

Cowboybart · « **Reply #24 on:** August 23, 2006, 04:26:23 PM »

I'd try the "epoxy a tool to it routine". Sacrafice a hex wrench and epoxy it to the set screw. Come back tomorrow and presto!! Can you find Inch thread and pitch set screws in Finland or are they all metric?? You may end up drilling and tapping to a metric size anyway.

heggis · « **Reply #25 on:** October 06, 2006, 10:01:15 AM »

Well I took it to a half-gunsmith friend to have a look at it and his judgement was to leave it in place. The front sight (and screw) are glued in place so it should be heated and drilled if I ever want to get them off

Not something I want to start to do. Oh well, i guess I have to put a scope on it

But on a positive note... just bought 1600 casings for the maximum from another friend. About 700 are 1 time used and the rest brand new. And the price... mammoth 190$

Those will last me a lifetime and a bit over

heggis · « **Reply #26 on:** November 22, 2006, 06:44:24 AM »

Something that my friend found from his "storageroom" when he was cleaning it. Sold them to me in a very good price

The middle one is not for supermag frame but luckilly fitting means removing material, not adding

Just quess which one I plan on using