Author Topic: 8 Gauge breech loading signal cannon (dial up users Beware) (Read 13633 times)

Powder keg · « **on:** July 15, 2006, 02:53:48 PM »

I finally am getting over being sick and was able to get out to my shop today. I don't seem to heal up as fast as I used to

I cleaned up a bit and finished a couple little projects I had going. This series will show the steps I use to build these fun guns. Today I got the barrles ready to drill. I faced off both ends and cleaned up the outside of the hot rolled shaft. The operations were pretty straight forward so I'm not going to post any pictures of that. I am getting these barrles up to the point of the bronze barrel that I started a bit back. That way I can maximize my time on my mill. I'll up date that post when pictures become available. I've incorperated some of the ideas that have been shown here lately in my design.

Later, Wes

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 15, 2006, 05:11:58 PM »

Wes,

It's good to hear your feeling better. looking foward to seeing pictures on this new project.

Ed

Powder keg · « **Reply #2 on:** July 15, 2006, 05:23:28 PM »

Thanks Ed, I haven't been that sick in a looooong time. I'm glad I'm feeling better to

I'm excieted about this project also.

Wes

Powder keg · « **Reply #3 on:** July 30, 2006, 05:45:53 PM »

Finally got these pictures cleaned up a bit for you people

After I drilled the barrels I set them up in my fancey new jig so I could mill the end. I took small steps that were 1/4" deep. to clean up what I needed.

After I got everything the way I liked it, I set up one of my indicators and centered the mill over the hole.

I then used an indicator to move the table a very precice amount. These two holes have to be spaced precicely so that they lign up with the pivote and slot in the breech door.

I then centerdrilled the hole where the breech bolts will live and then drilled them to size. I chucked the tap in my drill chuck and turned it by hand untill it was started straight. These holes have to be very precise.

I then finished taping the hole. I blew out the chips and retapped it with a bottom tap.

Next I'll be on the lathe. I need to clean up the bore so the shell fits good and then start tapering the barrel.

Later, Wes

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 01, 2006, 12:18:51 PM »

Wes,

Thanks for pictures, it so cool to see with the right equiptment and alot of skill what can evolve at the end of ones day in the work shop.keep them pictures coming!

Ed

Powder keg · « **Reply #5 on:** August 13, 2006, 05:31:01 PM »

Here's some more pictures. I went back to the lathe and set the barrel back up in the steady rest and bored the breech end out for the 8 gauge shell. The entire barrel is bored to the small diameter of the shell I just had to bore the end where the bulg and the rim is.

I then flipped the barrel around and cut the taper on it. These will look simular to the Strong barrels with a single taper from one end to the other.

Next I will start on the breech door. This is a tricky part and I've been trying to figure out how I'm going to go about it. I think I've about got it though.

Stay tuned......

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 14, 2006, 08:48:28 AM »

Looking good ! Can't wait to see that breech door come together. thanks for the update...

Ed

Michael Az · « **Reply #7 on:** August 14, 2006, 10:21:01 AM »

Nice work Powder Keg. Looks like you will soon have it done. I wonder if you are like me and hate machining bronze? It flies everywhere and gits in every nook and cranny it can find.
Let me know when ever you get some lead golf balls cast.
Michael

Powder keg · « **Reply #8 on:** August 15, 2006, 02:23:47 PM »

Hey,

I decided I'd need a reamer to do a good job on the pivot hole. It should be here Friday. I think I have everything figured out now. I just dont want to paint myself into a corner. I've had to make some stuff for my new rotary table. I'll post pictures when we get there.

Bronze in my opinion is very fun to machine. I love the high speeds and feeds. To help controle the chips get some of those natural bristled brushes and hold them over your tool while cutting. The chips will drop into your pan.

Later,

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 27, 2006, 03:01:43 PM »

Wes,

Looking for that update ... More Pictures.... more info..

Ed

Powder keg · « **Reply #10 on:** August 27, 2006, 06:13:55 PM »

I made some progress, but not what I had hoped. I had some major plumbing problems in my house:O( ended up replacing my hot water heater.

I got the jig to cut the radial slot in the breech door finished and I got the door ready to cut the slot.

I'll try to post some pictures tomarrow after work.

Later, Wes

Powder keg · « **Reply #11 on:** August 28, 2006, 08:14:57 PM »

Here is a picture of the door so far. I drilled and reamed the center hole in the door, then I cut the flat. I then indicated my mill vise in "dead nuts" and zeroed the spindle over the reamed hole for a precise location. I then set up an indicaror to move the table over for the location of the second hole. This hole it then drilled and reamed. This offset hole has to be very precise because it's the pivot hole for the breech. The center hole will be inlarged on the lathe and tapped for the firing mechanisim. I built a jig to hold the door to my rotary table. In the center is a pin that will locate the door precisly over the pivot pin.

Later,

Powder keg · « **Reply #12 on:** September 04, 2006, 02:11:58 PM »

Here is a picture showing the settup for scribing that line.

I milled and tapped the trunnion pockets today. Here is a quick picture of that.

I think I have the firing mechanism figured out, I'll start on that after work tomarow.

Wes

Powder keg · « **Reply #13 on:** September 17, 2006, 05:20:16 PM »

I finished the trunnions done this weekend. They turned out pretty good. When I get everything blued they will be assembled with red locktight. I also have some of the firing mechanism figured out and built. I'll post picts when It's done. This should work out pretty slick. I'll have to build a quick carriage to test fire these. When I do, and it will be soon. I'll post som video.

Santa Dave · « **Reply #14 on:** September 17, 2006, 07:03:51 PM »

DROOLING!

Dave

Tropico · « **Reply #15 on:** September 17, 2006, 08:25:18 PM »

Quote

DROOLING!

Me too !!!

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 17, 2006, 11:54:06 PM »

OH Man!!!!! Thats what I'mTalking about... need a Plastic drop cloth on my key board to keep it dry...ItS GeTtinG HaRd tO tYpE!!!

Powder keg · « **Reply #17 on:** September 18, 2006, 02:21:49 PM »

Shee's coming togather. I have the firing mechanism almost done. The big piece is stainless and will be polished. The long piece is the firing pin. The spring slides over it and they slip into the stainless housing. The pin will be drilled for a 1/16" cotter pin and a ring on the end. To cock it you will just pull back on the ring and insert the cotter pin. As soon as I get the housings done and the pins drilled and a point turned on them I'll be able to test fire.

Look for more tomarrow.......

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 18, 2006, 03:25:57 PM »

OK OK you have me studing this idea. can't wait !!!

Double D · « **Reply #19 on:** September 18, 2006, 05:39:30 PM »

Wes,

Are you copying this firing mechnanism from an existing one? Or creating on the fly ala John Browning?

Do you have a shotgun laying around you can measure from. Strikers (firing pin) have a very definite shape and diameter. The nose needs to be a hemishere. For shot gun if my memory serves me right the diameter need to be .085 to .095 with a maximum protrusion of .050 to .060. Measure one to be sure.

Too large a diameter can cause the primer to flow back and around the pin and into the breech block and lock it up. Sharp nosed pins can rupture primers. Too deep or long a pins pierce primers.

Powder keg · « **Reply #20 on:** September 18, 2006, 06:02:14 PM »

Thanks for the heads up Douglas:O) It is kinda on the fly. I saw pictures of a simular one here a few months back. If I test it by poping primers will the results be different than if the shell has a blank charge loaded in it?

El Cazador 66, The parts are lying the way they will be assembled. The fat end of the firing pin will have the nose machined on it. The threaded end of the housing will thread into the door and the skinny end of the firing pin will stick out of the left end. Hope that made sense? I'll try to finish one tomarow after work, might not be till Wednsday though. I want to finish the rest of the firing pin pieces for the other gun. I also have to machine the door handles. They will be a bit fancey.

Later,

Double D · « **Reply #21 on:** September 18, 2006, 06:15:18 PM »

Quote from: Powder keg on September 18, 2006, 06:02:14 PM

If I test it by poping primers will the results be different than if the shell has a blank charge loaded in it?

Most definitely

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 19, 2006, 01:39:48 AM »

No, I can make out what you have in mind... The studing part is how you plan to mount or secure the firing mechanism to the door. I see you have it all figured out.. looking forward to seeing the it come together...nice job wes...

Powder keg · « **Reply #23 on:** September 19, 2006, 12:09:47 PM »

I took the stuff I had and drilled it at work on break today. Here is a picture of the firing mechanism assembled and ready to fire. You just have to pull out the cotter pin. I think this will work pretty good.

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #24 on:** September 19, 2006, 02:14:10 PM »

Big stupid grin on my face

Thanks,
Ed

Michael Az · « **Reply #25 on:** September 19, 2006, 07:14:14 PM »

Something for consideration. You might put another hole in the firing pin for the cotter pin. This hole would be drilled with the firing pin in the collapsed position. With the firing pin down and the pin inserted, this would be a safety and the gun couldn't be fired even if the firing pin was struck by something.
Michael

Powder keg · « **Reply #26 on:** September 20, 2006, 01:27:22 AM »

Great Idea!!!! I was worried about that but couldn't see the answer

Thanks for the input.

Wes

Double D · « **Reply #27 on:** September 20, 2006, 06:36:58 AM »

Quote from: Michael Az on September 19, 2006, 07:14:14 PM

You might put another hole in the firing pin for the cotter pin. This hole would be drilled with the firing pin in the collapsed position. With the firing pin down and the pin inserted, this would be a safety and the gun couldn't be fired even if the firing pin was struck by something.
Michael

Sorry, bad Idea! The firing pin will the stick out the breech face and will get wiped out when you swing the breech open. You will forget, just one time. It also will hang up in the fired case. You want some sort of rebounding firing pin so when fired the pin retracts and is flush with the breech face.

Make a two piece inertia firing pin system. The part you already have is the striker. Make a small firing pin with a head. A spring goes over the actual firing pin portion. The firing pin sticks through the hole in the breech face. The spring retracts the pin. When the striker is relaxed it should be loose so the firing pin spring is able retract the fring pin.

You will have to work how to keep the firing pin with falling back inside when the thing is cock. May a breech face bushing like a double bbl shotgun or something like a tunnel block like a 1911 45.

GGaskill · « **Reply #28 on:** September 20, 2006, 08:21:51 AM »

How about cutting the mainspring such that it stops applying force to the firing pin about .1" short of hitting the stop. That way the firing pin can be pushed backwards with little force when the breech is opened.

Double D · « **Reply #29 on:** September 20, 2006, 08:36:36 AM »

I thought of that George, but it just isn't going to work, that pin has to retract. None retracting fring pins have a history of hanging up and get broke off. And you can't rely on manual retraction, it has to be passive, you will forget.