Author Topic: Chain length?  (Read 708 times)

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Offline wormbobskey

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Chain length?
« on: July 28, 2006, 04:51:38 PM »
I know this has been rehashed over and over, but I'd like to get some opinions on what length of chain some of you trappers use on your coon traps. Both on dry land and in water sets with drowners. Start the debate. Worm :)
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Offline jim-NE

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Re: Chain length?
« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2006, 02:55:26 PM »
as short as possible, with lots of swivels. land or water, all of my coon and predator traps alike have chains with end attachment less than 8", about 6" on most. Some just have two 4-way swivels linked together and no chain.
If I run drowners, which is generally only for beaver, I have a very short chain and go for a backfoot catch and deep water nearby. For coon I rarely run drowners. I catch most of my coon in dryland sets with #11s, short chains, lots of swivels, and make the sets in locations where there is nothing for the coon to grab onto or wrap up into the chain when caught.
On small streams I just use earth anchors or pogos and again, short chains with lots of swivels. I get zero damage, wring outs, etc. with this setup and mostly dry, fluffy

Offline Bogmaster

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Re: Chain length?
« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2006, 08:19:13 PM »
 Worm,on my drowners for coon,I too use as short as possible a chain.I run my cable from my pocket into deeper water,my chain is just long enough for me to set the trap in front,or at times in the pocket opening.Shorter chain ,less water needed for dispatch.
 I use a snap clip to attach my trap to the drowner lock,so after a swivel,the chain is only a few inches long.
 Tom
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Offline jim-NE

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Re: Chain length?
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2006, 12:21:00 AM »
Worm,
on drowners, think of chain length as adding that much more depth required to drown the animal, simple as that. If you hind foot catch a big male coon on a drowner slide wire rig, think that a big coon when stretched out from its hind foot (one with the trap on it) to the tip of its nose will run close to 3' anyway on just the big coon. I use tip of its nose as in the water if the drowner rig holds the hind foot down near the bottom where the wire is running, then the coon will have its head up trying to get air to breath, so at least the tip of its nose needs to get under water level also to drown the coon. Now, if your trap and chain add another 12" between the drowner wire and the coon's nose tip, well now you need 4 feet of water to drown it. Get a front foot catch and you now put the coon's nose much closer to the drowner wire underwater and now its tail will be in the air vs. its nose on the drowning rig.
Shortening the chain length will decrease the depth of water you need to drown the coon then, accordingly.
For beaver, which can run much longer in body length especially on very large adults, on a hind foot catch from wire, trap, chain, hind foot, and now to tip of the beaver's nose...well, you need some fairly deep water to pull off a complete drowning. Again, front foot catch and the depth need decreases by nearly the beaver's body length. But we all know from experience that the hind foot is the more desirable foot to nab in a trap for beaver to avoid wring off damage losses.
If deep water is not necessarily available at a good set location, it isn't always completely necessary to go for the full drown, either. As I mentioned, I rarely run drowners for coon at all anymore but that is mostly due to the locations I trap generally do not have deep water anyway so I adapted to holding them without a complete drowning kill. As the Bogmaster does with beaver, you can switch to bodygrippers and problem is solved irregardless of water depth, except if your state laws are similar to ours where #330s must be completely underwater, so I need at least that much water (10") to set a #330 in Nebraska...but if there are any beaver present that generally is not a problem finding 10" depth of water.
For coon, you can run drowners even out in shallow water, shallow enough even that it won't drown them. Just by holding them out in water of any depth will do a couple of things for you...it seems to reduce loss because the coon doesn't really have anything to grab onto to muscle out of the trap, and coon fur isn't waterproof like a beaver's is. If it is extremely cold out, you can actually kill them with hypothermia, but don't bank on that as coons are tough animals. On some small streams I trap the water may only be 10" deep in the center and maybe only 3'-5' wide. I can stretch a drowning wire across the entire stream, make a little knot/loop in the middle of the wire about midstream, and when I catch a coon it is held right at the knot, midstream, and in middle of whatever water is there. That trick works great on coon for me. Otherwise I just use earth anchors and anchor them right at the set sight, pocket or whatever set it was, and by using a #11 the coon is nearly always there waiting for me when I check sets the next day.
Good luck, Worm!
Getting ready for season yet? Its been hard to think about it here with temps hoving around 100 for so long now. I can hardly wait for a frost!
Jim

Offline wormbobskey

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Re: Chain length?
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2006, 04:07:54 PM »
jim-NE, our laws are about the same on body grip trap, anything over 7" has to be completely submerged. When I first started trapping 20 some years ago I used to use tangle sticks to get the coon into the middle of the creek and keep him there because I realized that they had a harder time trying to pull out when they were in the water as opposed to sitting on the bank. Anymore I use a lot of drowners simply because they are harder for theives to spot when your catch is on the bottom of the stream or river. Everything you mentioned makes perfect sense and it seems foolish on my part not to have realized the facts before. Thanks for a great reply. And yes I have been getting ready for the upcoming season. I've bought bartered and traded all spring and summer for more beaver and otter traps and even managed to pick up a new trapping location. It has several old strip pits with beaver sign in every one of them. I even found an otter toilet which really got me chomping at the bit. I have scouted a little and made several maps with set locations on them so I won't have to stumble around trying to figure the place out on the first day. Today I didn't have much to do so I took some extra 330 springs I had and some spare 220 frames and made up some magnum 220's I had to close the spring eye quite a bit, but they fire fast and close completely so I figure they will be great coon/ otter traps at big pocket sets. Bought a couple ounces of Asa's otter lure last year but heavy rains covered all of my sets before they could be effective. Can't wait to try it this year. Talk to you later and thanks again for the good advice. Worm
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Offline jim-NE

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Re: Chain length?
« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2006, 12:21:52 AM »
Sounds like you found a honey hole. Will have to be sending some CHRISTmas cards and plate full of goodies to the owner now and then to stay in good standing for the long haul for that one!
You've brought up a great point about drowners and thievery. Nothing puts a coon away and down out of site faster than on the end of a drowner. Excellent point. If you have a spot with not much water, a slider, which is basically a dryland version of the drowning rig, works well too. I have some lengths of heavier cable and heavier gauge wire that I use for sliders. You can take a fox or coon pretty far away from a catch site in an open area to a nearby weedy/brushy area or down over an embankment to get them out of site, too.
I've got one spot that gets one of these every year. Its a great location for catching animals...little narrow implement roadway that is about 50 long tops and connects two fields next to a wooded creek area, the roadway passes right through a very brushy draw and is about the only "open" stretch through the draw for quite a ways, too. That funnel has nailed everything for me from cats, to coyotes, fox, coon, badger, you name it. But, it also sticks out like a sore thumb when you have a catch staked right in the middle of the two wheel ruts, and is highly visible from either open field in late season. I switched to a slider about 20' long and that is just enough to take the catch through the weeds to the south and down over a 3' embankment drop into a little ditch ravine area...that area is totally out of site, can't even see it if you are standing at the set location itself...unless you follow the slide wire back to it. My wire gets a nice tan dye job so it matches the dead grass in the roadway. I set that location every year, always worth the effort of stringing a slider at that one. I think that location alone has yielded more catches for me than any other location I have set in my lifetime!

Offline wormbobskey

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Re: Chain length?
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2006, 10:20:58 AM »
Did some more scouting and have been finding a lot of muskrat sign along with the beaver. I didn't get to do to much muskrat trapping the last few years because of the fluctuating water levels on the river, but now I can pick up some this year in these sort of sheltered strip pits. I have also picked up another property to trap. Did an ADC groundhog job and the woman gave me permission to trap the creek on her property as well. She was very happy to have the groundhogs removed from under her 3 car garage. Gotta love those ADC fringe benefits. later, Worm.
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