Author Topic: Jammimg Problems with New 750 Remington___ Resolved (Read 2923 times)

McLernon · « **on:** July 30, 2006, 04:40:15 AM »

I am experiencing occasional jamming problems with my new 750. I'm shooting 150 gr Hornady Interbonds over 44 grains if IMR 4064. I have tried OAL lengths of 2.810 inches and 2.875 inches. One I got from the Hornady manual and the other from the Nosler manual. Any comments would be appreciated.

McLernon

Cheesehead · « **Reply #1 on:** July 30, 2006, 04:47:56 AM »

Exactly how is it jamming? First round? Second round. Every round? High feed? All loads. Factory ammo?

Cheese

tanoose · « **Reply #2 on:** July 30, 2006, 06:08:22 AM »

First off i'm going to guess your shooting a 308 winchester, that load would not produce enough pressure in a 30/06. we also need to know if you used this powder before and if you used those bullets before.Feeding problems are part of finding the right load in any semi-auto some might like RN while some like SP. Just make sure your rifle is clean and has no oil build up before testing loads if your rifle is shooting factory ammo with no problems then your good to go if not then you would have a problem with the rifle to fix before reloading

McLernon · « **Reply #3 on:** July 30, 2006, 08:05:59 AM »

Right, it is a .308 sorry I should have mentioned this first off!! My first round is placed directly into the chamber. Subsequently I add the clip with THREE cartriges only. I wonder about the effect of COL. Other than that I haven't noticed a definite pattern. I'll have to keep track of the jams better in my next range session. I had no jams with Remington 150 Corelocks but I only shot one box. My load is giving a good 2700 fps and it seems to be cycling fine as far as I can tell. As to the nature of the jam it appears that the cartridge tip gets jammed up against the receiver when being pushed forward by the breech block. I have increased the charge slightly for my next range session in the hopes that it will be closer to the factory stuff. By the way I expect that I will buy Remington Corelocks for hunting but I want to do some off-hand practice with cheaper hand-loaded fodder.

Thanks

McLernon

STexhunter · « **Reply #4 on:** August 01, 2006, 04:39:47 AM »

Could be a clip problem, try another clip and see what you get. Just my 2 cents worth.

botcha-galoop · « **Reply #5 on:** August 03, 2006, 09:15:25 AM »

The Remington 7400 operates on the blast back principle. I'm not familiar with the Remington 750 however I think it might operate on the same principle. There is no operating piston or rod as in an M1 Garand. The rails are attached to a collector (cup like), located in the fore-end stock which houses a steel lining acting as a cylinder chamber. (Not too efficient) Without the proper chamber pressure the action will not cycle properly. I could not shoot the 120gr bullets without the rifle jamming. Using the 180gr. bullets, no problem. Factory ammo worked much better than reloads possibly because of the case brass quality or resizing variances.

McLernon · « **Reply #6 on:** August 08, 2006, 02:00:36 PM »

I had a range session with my .308 Model 750 yesterday and have the following report wrt jamming. Wiith a clean unfouled(or relatively unfouled barrel) I got one jam after another. But as the barrel settled in the jams stopped. Conclusion: with an relatively clean barrel pressures and velocities are down and there isn't enough pressure to cycle the action. I can't get any more IMR 4064 in my cases so I need to change powders. I don't want to use ball powders as they are prone to ignition problems in very cold weather and I would like to stay with 150 gr. bullets. Any suggestions would be appreciated!!!!

Thanks

McLernon

Cheesehead · « **Reply #7 on:** August 08, 2006, 02:23:25 PM »

Try a faster burning powder.

Cheese

Whelen Man · « **Reply #8 on:** August 09, 2006, 07:52:36 AM »

You saying that it shot better when it was fouled made me think about the chamber. With an auto like this it is important that there is no oil fouling in the chamber. Be sure you thoroughly dry the chamber after cleaning the rifle and if necessary use a little degreaser on a rag through the chamber after cleaning. Oil in the chamber results in higher backthrust on the bolt and sometimes improper cycling in a semiauto. Just a thought to try. Your load might be okay.

Syncerus · « **Reply #9 on:** August 09, 2006, 08:19:35 AM »

How does the rifle shoot with factory (especially Remington) ammo? Buy 1 box of Remington 150 gr. ammo and another box of the 180 gr. Shoot off both boxes and see if they jam. If the factory ammo is reliable and your reloads aren't, then you know the problem is with your reloads. If the factory ammo of both varieties jams, then you can be pretty sure there is a problem with the rifle.

You are working with too many variables here. You have to isolate your problem down to a single variable to resolve the issue; anything else is just guessing.

Syncerus

McLernon · « **Reply #10 on:** August 10, 2006, 02:41:00 PM »

I thinkI'll have to try some more Remmy ammo this weekend. Any suggestions for a faster stick single base powder??

Thanks for all your responses!!!!!!

McLernon

Syncerus · « **Reply #11 on:** August 11, 2006, 11:20:45 AM »

Also, many autos require small base reloading dies and full length resizing. Are your dies small base dies?

Syncerus

McLernon · « **Reply #12 on:** August 11, 2006, 02:51:17 PM »

Hello Synceras:

To be perfectly honest I don't really know what these are or where to get them. Could you please explain. My new 750 is the first auto-loader I have had in a very long time and I have very little experience reloading for it. I have had no trouble reloading for my bolt guns.

Thanks for your responses!!!!!!!!!

McLernon

nrb · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2006, 07:41:35 AM »

I've reloaded for a 742 and 7400 3006 for years with no problems. Always full length resize, keep a dry chamber, and a faster powder as noted above. Remington chambers are not as tight as Brownings so I do not think you need a small base die. If you had problems with chambering the reloads then the problem may be in your full length sizing. Sounds like you are not fully cycling, so try a faster powder than 4064. In the IMR series, try 3031 or 4895. It may be the rifle is still a bit young and will loosen up with use. Since you are not having problems with factory ammo, I think the rifle needs different loads.
best, nrb

Syncerus · « **Reply #14 on:** August 17, 2006, 12:53:09 PM »

Small-base dies are dies especially designed to be used with autoloaders/pumps/lever rifles. They resize the base of the case a bit more tightly than normal full length dies and are supposed to help autoloaders function more reliably. They are no more expensive than regular dies; RCBS sells them among others. You can get them from www.midwayusa.com as well as from other places.

If the rifle doesn't have a physical problem (if it shoots factory ammo reliably), the problem is either the powder that you are using (too slow or too dirty) or the reloading dies. For powder, you might try using what the competition M1/M1A guys are are using; ask on one of the general forums and you'll be flooded with responses (handloading / competition / mil surplus forums).

Good luck,

Syncerus

McLernon · « **Reply #15 on:** August 17, 2006, 04:19:30 PM »

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!!!!!!!!!! Very helpfull!! One more question: do you think, all things being equal, that i would have better results with a 180 gr. bullet instead of 150's ??

Thanks again!!l

McLernon

Rick Teal · « **Reply #16 on:** August 17, 2006, 06:49:50 PM »

I went to the range today to shoot my Remington 750 Carbine in .35 Whelen, and had very similar results.

I couldn't mount an optical sight on this, because (contrary to what the guy at the store told me) my mod. 7400 bases had a different hole pattern than my new rifle.

Prior to heading out, I thoroughly cleaned the barrel and chamber.

I started with factory 200 grain loads, and the gun jammed on every shot. I switched to some of my 220 grain handloads, and it only jammed half the time. My handloads are a little hotter than the factories, kicking 220 grain bullets out at about the same velocities as the factories push the 200's.

With the factory ammo, I tried two different clips. One from a Remington 7600 pump, and the other was the factory clip.

I'll be heading in to store tomorrow with the gun and my spent brass and see if there's anything they can do or suggest.

McLernon · « **Reply #17 on:** August 18, 2006, 07:48:15 AM »

Just ordered an RCBS small base die for my .308/750. I might just as well try it!!!!!!!!!

McLernon

jimmyp50 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 18, 2006, 10:06:24 AM »

I am still interested in this gun, I hope it works out for everyone. These problems put a bit of a wet blanket on my desires to own one!!

McLernon · « **Reply #19 on:** August 18, 2006, 12:56:29 PM »

hello Jimmyp50

Don't let this temporary problem discourage you from buying a 750. I have come to accept that reloading for a semi takes more of an effort!!!!!!!! Factory loads worked fine. Also mine is quite accurate and a pleasure to shoot!!!!!!!!!

I expect to work out the problem. I ordered the short base sizing die today and hope this will help the cycling problem. Also I'll switch to IMR4895 which is a little faster as mentioned.

McLernon

wis_sharpshooter · « **Reply #20 on:** August 20, 2006, 12:41:21 PM »

Well it just sounds like a remington to me. I had a remington 742 and it jamed withno matter what shells I used reloads factoy remington, federal,winchester. Jamed Jamed Jamed. I also have a few friends that have them and they jam to. i had a model 597 .22 that jamed all day long even with 2 new clips and 5 different types of ammo. i do like there bolt guns though and i'm planing on getting one someday. I have sence switched to browning BARs and have never had a problem. but this is just my 2 cents.

Syncerus · « **Reply #21 on:** August 21, 2006, 05:34:48 AM »

Without trying to be negative, I too had problems with two 742 Remingtons. I was hoping that the 750 would be a better design.

Syncerus

menotomyhunter · « **Reply #22 on:** August 21, 2006, 12:52:22 PM »

I have a Remington M742 Carbine in .30-06. I reload exclusively for it using IMR 4895 and 165gr Remington PSP Corelokt or 180 grain Sierra GameKings. I only load 1 in the pipe and 3 in the magazine. The magazines have been carefully worked to assure that there are no rough spots where the bullets strip out during cycling and that there are no high spots on the mag lips to hinder the bolt in its forward and aft movement. The top of the magazine lips are finely polished with 600 grit wet/dry paper.

Dropped a buck Saturday morning with this gun using 165gr Rem PSPCL handload. Only used 1 shot and the second round chambered perfectly had I needed a follow-up shot.

I also have a goodly supply of military MATCH ammo designated M72. It uses 173 grain bullets and IMR 4895. Never a jam in the 742 as long as I don't try to load 4 in the magazine. With 4 in the mag, it will fail to feed the first round in the mag about half the time. After that, no problem.

The lesson for me: 1 in the pipe, 3 in the magazine.

McLernon · « **Reply #23 on:** August 27, 2006, 05:05:32 AM »

I think that I have discovered the reason for the jamming problem!!!!!! The scope screws are just a tad too long and I can see where the breech-block has been impacting them. When I work the action by hand occasionally it gets hung-up. With the trigger assembly removed more vertical clearance exists and the action works smoothly and NEVER gets hung-up. In addition there is also a high spot on the receiver adjacent to the rear-most screw.

I'll grind off the high spots and this combined with the smaller round diameter from the small base dies I hope will remedy the jamming problem.

I'll keep you all posted. If this is the problem I'd hate to see Remington get 'bad press' for something that's not their fault.

McLernon

McLernon · « **Reply #24 on:** August 31, 2006, 07:35:36 AM »

Well I just finished grinding down the scope base mounting screws a bit at at time and then bluing them and retrying until the bluing was undisturbed by the action of the breach-block and I ground down the hammer ever so slightly. I slit a sandwich baggy and pushed just the hammer thru and taped it in place so none of the grindings would get into the trigger assemby. Now there is no hang-up at all. Now to the range with my new IMR-4895 small based sized rounds. I hope that I have licked the jamming problem!!!!!!!

I'll keep you posted.

McLernon

McLernon · « **Reply #25 on:** August 31, 2006, 02:57:27 PM »

Complete success!!!!!!!!!! No jams after 35 rounds!!!!!! And ZI had light to medium loads -- none jammed

I think it' fine now so I'm a happy camper again!

McLernon

nrb · « **Reply #26 on:** September 01, 2006, 02:35:13 AM »

Thanks for the complete story. Mostly to clarify that the problem was not the rifle but the scope mounting screws.
best, nrb

Swampman · « **Reply #27 on:** December 09, 2006, 03:11:38 PM »

I'm thinking about buying one in .30-06. I'm glad it worked out.

RNettles · « **Reply #28 on:** December 13, 2006, 11:24:50 AM »

Quote from: McLernon on August 31, 2006, 07:35:36 AM

Well I just finished grinding down the scope base mounting screws a bit at at time and then bluing them and retrying until the bluing was undisturbed by the action of the breach-block and I ground down the hammer ever so slightly. I slit a sandwich baggy and pushed just the hammer thru and taped it in place so none of the grindings would get into the trigger assemby. Now there is no hang-up at all. Now to the range with my new IMR-4895 small based sized rounds. I hope that I have licked the jamming problem!!!!!!!

I'll keep you posted.

McLernon

You might want to take a look at the bolt to hammer surface, too. I had a 7400 that was jamming every 2 or 3 rounds. I polished the hammer surface, where the bolt cocks the hammer, and it improved reliability.

Author Topic: Jammimg Problems with New 750 Remington___ Resolved (Read 2923 times)

Swampman