Ruger Bisley Hunter

[James B]

I got a new Ruger Bisley Hunter a short time back. I thought shot pretty well until I put a scope on it. Now my wiggles are greatly magnified and I realize how heavy the trigger is. I am going to take it to a Gunsmith and I wondered what I should go for trigger pull wise? The gunsmith says with springs and stoning, he can usually get about 2-3 lbs. Is this a good pull weight for a single action revolver?

[KYsquirrelsniper]

Before you spend your money, you might want to check this out...http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm

[EdK]

Gunblast says: "Simply lift one side of the trigger return spring from the pin, and you have dramatically reduced the trigger pull without affecting the weight of hammer fall or detracting from the function of the revolver."

Seems like you're getting something for nothing here which generally flies in the face of what we've all learned in the real world. How does this really work "without affecting the weight of hammer fall or detracting from the function of the revolver."?

[45Spades]

All I can tell you is that it works.  My Ruger has worked fine and now has a much better smoother trigger pull.

[James B]

Thanks a lot for the reply's. Sounds like that might be worth a try.

[2 dogs]

I had to lap my Bisley Hunter with the Beartooth kit. Took 40 rounds, cleaning every 6 shots, but it was worth it.  Now my Bisley is accurate and lead free.

[Lloyd Smale]

lifting a spring will usually cut your trigger pull about in half but will do nothing for creap as a matter of fact with the lighter trigger pull the creap will be even more noticeable and creap is alot more detrimental toward accuracy then trigger pull is. Ive done it to a few guns and and some of them worked fine and others had to light of hammer falls and one would even allow the hammer to push off with not much pressure. A gunsmith will usually only charge a hundred bucks to to an action and thats going to take care of trigger pull creap and even smooth the action up its well worth it!!!!

[safetysheriff]

lifting a spring will usually cut your trigger pull about in half but will do nothing for creap as a matter of fact with the lighter trigger pull the creap will be even more noticeable and creap is alot more detrimental toward accuracy then trigger pull is. Ive done it to a few guns and and some of them worked fine and others had to light of hammer falls and one would even allow the hammer to push off with not much pressure.

lloyd, et.al.

the poor man's trigger job does nothing to the hammer spring.   it only lightens the effort that the trigger-return spring is applying......

on my Bisley i once cut one coil ( i think it was one whole turn.......but not more) off the hammer spring and it greatly lightened/smoothed my trigger pull.   the pressure on the hammer/sear engagement was lightened enough to make a significant difference without causing any reliability problems with ignition of the cartridges.    i did not touch the trigger-return spring on that Bisley.   

i'd cut one coil off the spring or get a spring kit from Wolff's and do my own work.........if you are good at mechanical work.    (wear Safety Glasses when working with springs!)

just my two cents,

ss' 

[Lloyd Smale]

I realize that but if the trigger return isnt strong enough to hold good sear enguagement it will push off. Mine did anyway. there was a post about this on the ruger fourm a couple years back and i sure wasnt the only one that experienced this

[jpsmith1]

While getting into my Ruger, I did the po' boy trigger job, then undid it, then re-did it, then, ultimately, un did it, returning the trigger to stock.  The number of firing cycles smoothed the trigger although it did nothing for the creep.  I found that the lighter trigger led ME to premature discharges.  As I was finalizing the sight alignment and sight picture, I'd be squeezing the trigger.  The lighter pull surprised me more than once.  I was ultimately happier with the stock pull.  Sure, a slicked up gun would be nice and I'd probably shoot it better, but right now, I just can't justify the $$.

[Camel 23]

A different variation of it.  http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

[Prof. Fuller Bullspit]

If you want a great trigger on a Bisely without a trip to the gunsmith get a Power Custom half cock hammer/trigger combination from Brownells.

These are easy to install (as long as you are comfortable with the inside of your Ruger) and gives a very nice trigger pull. Get a spring kit at the same time and install a lightened trigger spring. You may or may not want to install a lighter mainspring. A lighter mainspring will also contribute to a better trigger, but it will increase locktime which can hurt accuracy. You may find that you can live with the full power mainspring with the Power hammer/trigger kit so try that first before you go too light with the mainspring.

[Lloyd Smale]

One other part of the pour boys trigger job that should be avoided is the practice of applying pressure to the hammer with your thumb while pulling the trigger to smooth out the sear. I ruined a hammer an sear by doing that. the problem is that ruger hammers and sears vary A LOT in hardness and if you happen to have a soft one it doesnt take much of that to ruin some parts. My buddy who does my triggers about choked me for doing that! It cost me a few bucks in replacement parts! If you insist on doing a pour boys trigger job. Drop a leg and leave it at that.

[Bullseye]

If it were mine I would just take it to a smith and have him get it in the 3-3.5 pound range without all the creep that every Ruger I have ever owned came with.  I have lightened them before without getting rid of the creep and for me that does not help my shooting much.  I change springs on Contenders and S&W's to get a lighter pull, but they generally do not have a bunch of creep to start with.

[2 dogs]

I would spend the money and get a proper trigger job and a trigger stop.