Ruger Old Army Black Powder Pistol

[kfouts2]

Does anyone know what patches or wads I should use to safely protect the other cylinders from firing from the sparks coming from the ball being fired?
I heard that instead of using wax I might be able to use this special wadding.
Thank you.

Ken

[dodgecity]

They're probably refering to "Wonder Wads". These are a felt wad made in the various calibres and are impregnated with a dry lube. After pouring the powder charge, the wonder wad is seated on top of the powder, and then the ball is seated firmly over the wad. The wad under the bullet serves as bith a gas seal, and a lube. Some shooters who use the wads still put a layer of grease over the bullet to increase the amount of lube. The negatives of a wonder wad are that it adds an additional expense to each round, and it uses up chamber space that would otherwise be additional powder space. On the plus side, when used alone, the wad provides both a seal and a lube without the messiness of grease, and unlike grease, the wad does not melt when preceeding chambers are fired. Most suppliers sell wonder wads. You can do a google search for wonder wads...... Regards.

[mg66]

Nowhere round here sells lubed Wonder Wads. I buy them from Dixie Gunworks. My New Army prefers WWs, my 1860 prefers not. I also use Crisco over the seated balls.

[darrell8937]

I too use crisco, cabellas wonder lube is a bit better, firmer, I some times use the butter flavored crisco as it smells real good, depending on the powder type. Makes you hungry though. I have been shooting my 1858 remmington a lot latley and groups are just getting better. I love the sound or the boom and the slap of the ball hitting the target. a lot of fun. I need to build a target to catch my lead balls to be remelted.

[howdy doody]

It depends on your load. I have shot ROAs for a few years with a 30 gr load. I put ball right on the powder with no wad. I can pull that off because I had extended rams made for mine. I have had no problems in many rounds fired in CAS shooting. The ROA cylinders are very deep and a good soft (like Speer) .457 ball will seal well enough to suit me. Hunting loads are another story and if you don't want to use over the ball lube, the wonder wads should work fine. Cabelas used to sell them, they also had 45 cal paper wads in a couple thicknesses too.

[longcaribiner]

I have been shooting a ROA for almost thirty years.  I have tried all kinds of things.  You can buy a 45 cal wad punch and punch yer own if ya have a mind to.  I think Dixie sells them I don't use them.  I often use crisco from a cake decorator dispensor.  I still have several  tubes of very old Blue and Gray brand "Pistol Patch"  a special lube that was sold for cap and ball revolvers.  (I bought four cases when a store was going out of business)   That works great, don't know if it is still available.   It is about the consistency of soft butter, but with a high melting temp.    It won't melt off on hot days.   

I have shot 457 swaged round balls, home molded balls, and even 310 grain .456 pure lead bullets from an old Ideal 45-70 mold.   (Talk about some oomph!)   

I have shot raccoons, dozens of wood chucks and a few dogs with the ROA.  Just a cream of wheat filler packed tight on top the powder and under the ball will seal the chamber.    I don't ever shoot without sealing the chamber some how.  I prefer the lube on top the bullet so it coats the bore before the ball & powder fouling hits the bore.     My ROA probably has 3 thousand shots through it.   

The only way you'll know what works for you, is to experiment.  Wonder wads are good for their intended purpose.  But I'd rather the lube be on top the ball/bullet for the reason stated.  I can shoot all afternoon in any condition and the fouling doesn't stick to the barrel.     For my purposes, as much powder as will just leave room for the bullet works best.  3f, and pure lead.       

[vern]

I used to mix parrafin wax and vaseline to a nice pliable consistency.

Vern