necks very tight when resizing, help!

[Selmer]

I'm running into a problem with my .243 Hornady Custom Dies when resizing.  I lube the cases put the powder in the neck, then resize.  On the upstroke (removing the case, pulling the neck back over the sizing button)  the case will stick on the sizing button, to the point where I have to put penetrating oil on it, tighten the decapping pin again (it's a collet set-up to adjust decapping pin length) and try it until it finally comes loose, but I might go through this procedure a couple times, and it's splitting some of my necks as well.  The brass has been fired twice, Winchester brass, and I'm running it through for the third firing.  I've never experienced this in 15+ years of reloading, but then all of my other dies are RCBS or Redding, and the decapping pins can't come loose cause they're THREADED!  Any tips would be good, should I be annealing? I wouldn't think so after only two firings, but maybe?
Thanks for the help!!!
Selmer

[STexhunter]

Don't know what powder you are using on the neck, I guess graphite.  Anyway I would try cleaning the inside of the necjk with a bronze etc. brush.  I use Hornady spray lube and allow a little to get inside the neck. I have even put a little case lube on a bore cleaning brush and ran that in the neck. This has worked for me when I get chatter pulling the resizing button out.  Then again it might be that the resizing button is a little large.

[Questor]

Selmer:

I had that problem with their dies and the dies were defective. Send them back. Or switch to another maker of dies. In my case, the dies were Hornady custom dies for 6.5JDJ. I ended up taking a sledge hammer to the dies and replacing them with RCBS dies. I was getting nowhere with Hornady, they kept wanting to charge me money for services and parts, so junking them nipped the problem in the bud. Hopefully you will have better luck than I did with them.  By the way, I found the Hornady decapping pins to be easy to bend, and a replacement cost me ten bucks plus a few bucks shipping.

It was nature's way of telling me to stick with RCBS: problems are very rare, and if there are, they fix it at no charge. Talk about a customer loyalty program!

[kyote]

gaaaads,It would be hard to give you a soultion to a problem with out looking at the dies,brass.I would mic. the expander ball to see if it was in spec.then look at it close to insure it was on center and not sitting off center.if all that looked good.I would buy a tube of lyman case lube the white looking grease.I put a little dollup on my finger and graze across the sides of the lube with the case mouth trying to get a smidge in the inside cuirucfernce of the case.are I would invest in imperial sizing lube.that is the best so far.should solve the sticky problem.oh yea make sure to chamfer the inside of the case neck with a quality chamfering tool.and if the inside of the necks are real dirty..chuck a nylon bore brush up in a drill and wrap some 0000 steel wool around it and run it in and out of the neck once r twice and that will help also.good luck...and please let us know the solution to the problem.

[Reed1911]

All good tips (less the hammer idea). I did not see anyone mention the placement of the expander/de-capper. Make sure you have it set as deep as possible. What you are tyring to avoid is having the top of the expander ball anywhere near the point in the die where the neck is being sized, it is possible to get it too close and you may not notice it on the up stroke but you will on the down.

DO NOT lube any case with graphite, it will effect powder burning. I just saw it on the first response and thought it needed to be addressed.

[dw06]

All good tips (less the hammer idea). I did not see anyone mention the placement of the expander/de-capper. Make sure you have it set as deep as possible. What you are tyring to avoid is having the top of the expander ball anywhere near the point in the die where the neck is being sized, it is possible to get it too close and you may not notice it on the up stroke but you will on the down.

DO NOT lube any case with graphite, it will effect powder burning. I just saw it on the first response and thought it needed to be addressed.

I agree with the placement of the expander/decapper,also check to make sure it is right size,never know it could be a 25cal expander got put on as mistakes happen.
Now the part about graphite I have to disagree,in fact if I'm not mistaken some powders have graphite on the outside coating.Correct me if I'm wrong on that.Anyhow I've used graphite for years on insides of case necks and never had a problem.What say you

[Glanceblamm]

I agree with Questor about the dies. Just so happens that I ran into this problem on my very first caliber and a Lyman die that came with my reloading outfit.
It took me four days to switch to RCBS and the problem disappeared.

It is still esential  to brush and lube those necks as neglect or not enough lube can quickly bring about popping or chattering on the upswing.
Your 15yrs of experience has got you around these problems though.
I would recheck the expander adjustment (which you probably have set correctly) then trash that die.
I dont know what Hornadys return policy is but if they would fail to correct the problem on the first go around, your parts & shipping will probably equal one half of a new die set.

[dw06]

I agree that the new dimension decapping pin and spindle bend easy,although I had a very different experience with Hornady just last wednesday.I bought a set of new dimension II dies with the new zip spindle.Resized a bunch of cases with no problem,then I goofedup and grabbed a militaryc case and,well you guessed it,never used those cases before and forgot primers were crimped.It ruined the whole zip assembly including the expander.Called Hornady to order parts and explained that it was all my fault,she said cost was $13,but she was sending parts out free of charge under warranty!!I could'nt beleive it.Even got then on sat,so a big thumbsup for there customer service from me!By the way I like the inline bullet seater with these dies.

[Reed1911]

[quoteNow the part about graphite I have to disagree,in fact if I'm not mistaken some powders have graphite on the outside coating.Correct me if I'm wrong on that.Anyhow I've used graphite for years on insides of case necks and never had a problem.What say you]

You are 100% correct, graphite is used as a flame retardant to control burn speed. Take your good loads and change the powder burn speed and you have at least a bad load, possibly you'll overpressure one if the conditions go just right.
The primer is enough to unseat the bullet from the case and put it and the powder into the bore before the powder actually ignites and/or begins to burn well. With a max load it can sure cause problems.

There really is a reason powdered mica is popular.

You've done it for years with no problem? I fully believe it. You can possibly continue on for many more years to come with no problems, Like so many other things though it only takes one time to cancel out all the years of luck. It kinda falls in the realm of squibs and double charges.

[dw06]

You've done it for years with no problem? I fully believe it. You can possibly continue on for many more years to come with no problems, Like so many other things though it only takes one time to cancel out all the years of luck. It kinda falls in the realm of squibs and double charges.

Well Reed1911 maybe you better check out a product called Imperial dry neck lube powder,it is most definitely a graphite base neck lube.So I guess me and the thousands of reloaders using it is in great peril.The amounts that are left in a case after bringing it over the expander would be insignificant.Powder is coated with graphite to make it flow better,like in manufactering process and also powder measures.There are other coatings used to control burn rate.

[Reed1911]

Well Reed1911 maybe you better check out a product called Imperial dry neck lube powder,it is most definitely a graphite base neck lube.So I guess me and the thousands of reloaders using it is in great peril.The amounts that are left in a case after bringing it over the expander would be insignificant.Powder is coated with graphite to make it flow better,like in manufactering process and also powder measures.There are other coatings used to control burn rate.

Think so 'eh? Don't take my word for it, feel free to call and do your own research.

[dw06]

Well Reed1911 maybe you better check out a product called Imperial dry neck lube powder,it is most definitely a graphite base neck lube.So I guess me and the thousands of reloaders using it is in great peril.The amounts that are left in a case after bringing it over the expander would be insignificant.Powder is coated with graphite to make it flow better,like in manufactering process and also powder measures.There are other coatings used to control burn rate.

Think so 'eh? Don't take my word for it, feel free to call and do your own research.

Ok Reed 1911,We are not getting anywhere here,I do think so,and I have no intenition of "taking youre word for it"My research is 30 years of reloading,and the fact that there are many products on the market,including the one i stated,that millions of reloaders use everyday with no problems what soever.You made the statment,

DO NOT lube any case with graphite, it will effect powder burning. I just saw it on the first response and thought it needed to be addressed.

That is the first and only time I've ever heard that in my life.That is why I responded,hoping to learn something.I stil dissagree and guess we will have to agree to dissagree on this subject.Take care