Author Topic: THE STICKY CASES PROBLEM IS BACK (Read 1118 times)

lonewolf5348 · « **on:** September 02, 2006, 11:45:11 AM »

I was out yesterday with the handi 06 and now and then having problems with cases not ejection after the shot with a new powder.I solved the problem by dropping back on the powder charge by.5 grains using IMR 3031 44.5 grains and seem the 3031 powder is o.k and all cases eject without problems..I did start the problem again when I tried a new powder IMR4350 using 52.3 grains and found 3 shots would not eject but did shoot a total of 15 more rounds without any problems.I would hate to be in the woods and have a case stick on me,I did find a easy fix at the range yesterday used my vent liner toothpick (harden steel) and got between the side of the case and the ejecton pin ,sem the case flew out without any problems would be a lot easy to carry the steel pin instead of a cleaning rods.
I full length resize all my brass did the J@B on the chamber,made sure there was no oil left on the extractor and cases no signs of high pressure on the brass ,loads are middle of the chart,any ideas what left to prevent cases to stick??? I find myself not to reload any cases that stick.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #1 on:** September 02, 2006, 12:15:40 PM »

Your ejector spring may be weak, you can put a bb under it to increase ejector pressure. While you're in there, polish the raceway and ejector to make it work better. See Fred's web page for ejector tuning info, use the ejector to extractor conversion link for ejector R&R. All info is in the FAQ.

Another issue that I have seen mentioned here is if you're full length resizing your brass every time, it's going to work harden and will not spring back as it did when newer, that could cause stuck brass, all else being equal. How many times have you reloaded the brass?

Tim

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 02, 2006, 01:48:17 PM »

I would say about the 5th time for the brass as far as reloading I myself thought the spring on the ejector,Tim how hard it the BB and ejector removal? was wondering would the estractor thought was on my mind I read in the hrlp forum about a card roll up and inserted into a hole will that work,will H@R senf me a new spring if I call them hate to return the gun just for a spring??
The new load IMR 4350 at the 100 will cut bullet holes<I was happy with the 3031 loads 3 shot just under 7/8 but the 4350 had guys talking at the range

tanoose · « **Reply #3 on:** September 02, 2006, 03:13:32 PM »

IMR4350 is all i use in all my 30/06's 59.0 with 150's and 57.0 with 180's and never had problems. Last year i switched to IMR4831 54.0 but this is with Hornady 220 grain bullets.

dw06 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 02, 2006, 03:27:24 PM »

Quote from: tanoose on September 02, 2006, 03:13:32 PM

IMR4350 is all i use in all my 30/06's 59.0 with 150's and 57.0 with 180's and never had problems. Last year i switched to IMR4831 54.0 but this is with Hornady 220 grain bullets.

I use the same loads as tanoose,plus 57.0grs with 165"s.Also have used IMR 4064- 52.0 with 150's and 48.5 with 180's.You might try the 4064,as it gave me almost the same size groups,but I like 4350 better.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** September 02, 2006, 03:37:07 PM »

You can order the ejector spring from H&R or Brownells, it's not hard to R&R it, read the FAQ, it tells how! The card paper trick is just a temporary conversion to spring driven extractor, it won't do a thing for stuck brass.

Tim

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #6 on:** September 03, 2006, 12:16:47 AM »

Tim: thanks I will give the BB a try and see if my problem goes away

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 03, 2006, 02:35:16 AM »

Tim: would you have a link to a drawing breakdown on the SB2 handy ejection parts?

Center Shot · « **Reply #8 on:** September 03, 2006, 03:41:33 AM »

I was have sticking problems with my .243 and found that nickel plated brass did not stick.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #9 on:** September 03, 2006, 05:16:02 AM »

I added this to the FAQ, but it's got an error in it. The ejector latch and latch spring is reversed in the pic and most newer ejectors have a lifter button under the spring.

http://perkloafm.com/pixs/extractor_mod.pdf

Here's a pic of my .280 ejector parts that I removed for the rechamber, they're pretty much in the installed position relative to each other.

Tim

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 03, 2006, 07:35:54 AM »

Tim: thanks again

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 08, 2006, 12:11:33 PM »

I may have found a easy fix for sticky cases:
I was out at the range to-day and after firing 25 rounds in the o6 I found no problems with sticky cases.I tried some BALLISTOL on a clean rag and wiped the finish rounds down and then rewiped them with a clean rag.I found ejection from fired brass to fly out of the action all 25 rounds gave me no problems.

Bob Tobergte · « **Reply #12 on:** September 08, 2006, 01:33:10 PM »

Dont take chances. Carry a 3 to 4 inch brass rod that you can drop down barrel thru the muzzle. It will knock case rite out.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #13 on:** September 08, 2006, 01:50:08 PM »

Lonewolf, I would say that what you're doing with the ballistol is making sure the ammo is clean, works for me too!! When I do case prep, just before priming the brass, I wipe em down to get rid of any sizing lube. One of the advertised qualitiies of Ballistol is that it's a cleaner in addition to a lubricant.

Tim

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 08, 2006, 04:04:00 PM »

Quick: lot easy quick fix : I almost was going to take the spring out and add a BB

Fred M · « **Reply #15 on:** September 08, 2006, 04:25:50 PM »

Lonewolf.
Any kind of lube and Ballistol is no exception when applied to cases will greatly
increase back thrust. Not a good deal specially in a Handi. You want a clean case and no lube on it.

8 to 9 full sizeing will not work harden brass enough to loose its ductility or elasticity. After 8 uses you better get rid of the brass because that is when case head seperations start in a Handi. I full size all my brass for my two Hanid's

J-B paste will not polish a chamber since it does not remove any steel. To polish a chamber you need some 6 and 800 grit applied to a fired case and spun with an electric drill once smooth finish off with Flitz. do not put any grit on the shoulder or the neck

J-B past is designed to remove copper fouling and carbon.

Norseman112 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 08, 2006, 04:42:18 PM »

Fred isn't JB bore paste a mild abrassive? Or is it to mild? I did use it when I bought my handi rifles when new and I havn't had a stuck case. I also used it to polish the bore.

John

quickdtoo · « **Reply #17 on:** September 08, 2006, 05:17:43 PM »

JB non-embedding bore compound sure comes out black on my patches when I polish a bore with it, just like it does with Flitz, Maas, Simichrome and USP paste, it sure as heck does remove a very small amount of metal from the bore, they're all very mild abrasives. If they didn't remove any metal, what turns the patches black, and don't tell me it's carbon fouling, this is from new bores!!

I just polished the chamber on my 7mm-08 barrel, finally got it fitted to a frame, JB turns the patch black just like any metal polish, although maybe no as fast. It doesn't take long with a patch wrapped mop on the tip section of a 3pc cleaning rod chucked in a drill, which is SOP for me!!

Tim

SOP = Standard Operating Procedure

Fred M · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2006, 05:50:36 PM »

Why spent hours when you can do the job in five minutes? Just have a look with a borescope and see what J-B paste does in a chamber. You ever heard of a barrel maker lapping the bore with J-B, it simply does not cut it. Polishing a chamber is no different.

Ok you guys use J-B no harm done. Wear out your ellbows. I like J-B to clean barrels when needed. That is what it was made for.

Nice looking shop Tim, mine is cluttered with too mang jobs going on at the same time.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2006, 05:55:07 PM »

Thanks Fred!! My shop wasn't just cluttered, it had so much junk and crap in it that I had no room to work, had to move this and than to do anything! Last spring I had enough of it and cleaned house, the entire house, filled a 40yd dumpster ¾ full and now I have all kinds of room in the garage, basement and my shop!!

I had 720lbs of scrap metal too, made $35 off of it!!

Tim

D.C. · « **Reply #20 on:** September 08, 2006, 07:52:35 PM »

Fred said" Nice looking shop Tim" I concur ,nice shop. I like that idea . The case trimmer on the wall just above trash can hight. No mess to clean up when you are done. I will have to do that with mine. thanks for sharing that. D.C.

handyman06 · « **Reply #21 on:** September 08, 2006, 09:14:31 PM »

are you trimming your brass? i have a hornet that was sticking frontier cases from factory loaded hornady ammo. i examined all the cases that stuck and none of the case mouths were square, they looked miter cut. i trimmed all of that once fired brass and havent had a stuck case since and im on the fourth loading. im convinced that the case mouths were protruding into the throat and wedging themselves in there, but i can't say for certain as i took no measurements, but it took alot of trimming to cut them to spec. if you arent trimming your brass it might be worth looking into.

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 09, 2006, 12:46:45 AM »

I do trim my brass let see fatory brass max:2.494 i trim them to 2.485
I hope it right don't have my reloading book here at the pc.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #23 on:** September 09, 2006, 05:09:44 AM »

Thanks DC!!

Tim