Tighten up my Security Six

[olywa]

I've had at least one Security Six in my collection for the last 30 years. My current Security Six is a 4" stainless from the mid-'70s, pre-warning but post changes to the grip frame. I picked it up a couple years ago in pretty rough shape, cleaned it up, changed the springs, polished the sear/trigger, put a Millett rear on it, and replaced the grips with a Hogue Monogrip. The end result is that this is probably the best shooting and smoothest Security Six I have ever owned. I carry it frequently and I put at least 250 rounds a month through it.

Here's where I'm heading with this. I just bought a new SP101 and I recently fondled a new 44 Alaskan (I am ready to trade my first-born for it). One thing I noticed about these new revolvers is how much tighter they are than my older 357 Security Six. There is almost no forward-and-aft or lateral movement of the cylinder. It locks in place and the barrel-cylinder gap is  noticeably less than on my SS.

My Security Six, on the other hand,. has enough play in it that the barrel-cylinder gap goes from .002"-.007" when I push or pull on the cyinder. It normally rests at .003". Though there is a little lateral play when the cylinder is locked in place, the alignment on all cylinder chambers appears good and I get zero lead shavings. Also, the forcing cone seems to be in great shape.

This revolver does everything I expect it to do and like every Security Six (3 total) that I've ever owned, it does everything well. So should I care that it's a little loose? I intend to hang onto this revolver for a long time. Would I be well served to have a good Smith go over it and at least get rid of the cylinder shake and tighten up the barrel-cylinder gap?

[Flash]

The slop you're refering to is the thickness of a human hair. The optimum gap between cylinder and forcing cone is .006 so in that regard, you're fine. Unless you shoot tens of thousands of rounds per year, your Security six will outlast you, me and all the others here reading this. If you're still uncomfortable, send it to Ruger but be prepared for a factory restore. This means you'll loose your trigger pull and your hammer springs. Shoot it in comfort!

[safetysheriff]

i bought the shims for a GP-100 (4")  and took the end-play from relatively loose (.005", i think it was) to almost nothing.    i removed the cylinder from the yoke, per the instruction manual, placed a slightly-greased shim or two into the cylinder per the instructions, re-installed it to the yoke and achieved an excellent set-up in no time.    of course this means that you maintain a near-maximum barrel/cylinder gap by moving the cylinder toward the rear of the frame using the shim(s).   but i figured that as long as the cylinder was not being 'launched' rearward within the frame by the firing of .357 Mag' loads that this was an Very good trade-off.    i'd do it all over again if i had a revolver with anything over .003" end-play.   

i don't find .006" to be acceptable end-play in the Real World when firing magnum ammuniton.  but i agree with Flash that i would not send the revolver back to Ruger unless you're willing to have them undo the other changes you've made.

i may have gotten the shims from Midway USA. 

take care,

ss'   

[olywa]

You know, I was thinking about trying those shims but I was worried that I'd just force the gap open. I reckon I'll just shoot moderate loads and continue to enjoy it. That Alaskan is calling to me now...

[safetysheriff]

you will not be forcing the gap open.   the gap and the end-play are already there.  all you'll be doing is putting the cylinder into a position with reduced end-play.   done properly there is no 'force' applied.   that's why i think it is helpful to reduce the slack (endplay) and allow yourself to work up new handloads for the more consistent barrel cylinder gap.

it has got to help the longevity of the cylinder frame when the endplay is properly reduced to a more modest specification.

take care,

ss'